I've just gone round to see a bathroom in a 1930's house that has had all of its tiles hacked off the walls and is waiting to be plastered. 3 walls are to be re-tiled from top to bottom and 1 wall is to be plastered to a decent finish for painting.
One of the walls that is to be re-tiled is a timber and lathe sytle wall. In many areas of the wall the wooden lathe is exposed and in one place there is movement in the wall when you press/push the plaster.
Could anyone recommend the best method for the lathe wall? Which plaster type should be used here as its only going to have tiles covering it and what can i do about the movement?
Also, whats the best method for the wall that needs the decent finish? There are patches that have the brickwork exposed so I am guessing these need to be treated before skimming but I am not sure on which plaster to use.
If the lathe & plaster wall is not going to form one side of a shower, overboard the wall with plasterboard, if it is use something like an eternit board which will withstand the damp.
You do not say whether the masonry walls are lime plaster - this will affect how you repair them.
I'd suggest that the lath and plaster walls are removed and re-boarded as the surface you are tiling to may not be able to carry weight of tiles as the walls have decayed. On the non tiled wall you need pva wall then apply browning on the brick surface before a finishing plaster.
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See the DIY Projects section and look for repairing lath and plaster. Expanded Metal Lathing can be used easily but you may need to add a stud or noggin to the timbers to keep the spring out. This method is used in a lot of trust properties and listed buildings to maintain the integrity of the wall while at the same time giving it strength. We have even used it to re-cover an 11th century wattle and daub farmhouse in Deleted.