Can my wooden floor be resurrected after woodstain overlap.


Postby youngnug » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:41 pm

Hi just wondered if anyone can help. I recently sanded my floors back to bare wood after hiring some sanders. I decided to stain floor tonight but I just wasn't quick enough or was I doing it wrong. I now have overlap marks every approx 15" across the floor as I was working from left to right and at the end of the row starting agian. I have only applied 1st coat can this be sorted or will it even out if I get a sponge pad to apply 2nd/3rd coats. If the bad news is re-sand I would prefer to know now. This is flooring in my hall and was a nightmare to use the sanders in the 1st place.
What if I stained slightly darker?
Please help any info would be greatly appreciated.
youngnug
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:33 pm

Sponsor

Floor levelling system

Postby Tall Tone » Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:56 pm

Staining is a nightmare with solvent based products. The uptake of colour is so quick that you have to do each plank or block as an individual.
Modern waterbased stains and oil based stains have their own quirks so you have to read the manufacturers instructions and do it just as they say.
I would personally use an oil based stain and take the two day curing time before putting a lacquer coat down.
I assume you are using Colron or similar spirit based stain?
You could try a second coat of stain but do each block/plank as an individual trying not to get any overlap. If that does not work it's back to the sander.
Sorry
TT
Tall Tone
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:35 pm


Postby youngnug » Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:25 am

TT,
I was using Ronseal woodstain it is an interior/exterior woodstain which according to tin is not suitable for floors but I thought it would be ok as I was going to finish with diamond hard clear varnish. The fooring boards are approx 60mm wide so it may take a while to re stain. I was going to try and remove stain with paint stripper/nitromors. Do you think nitromors will do the trick?

I tried to blend in heavy overlap areas with white spirit but very little joy. I tried to blend with light sandpaper but very little joy and also tried blending with white spirit on wire wool but very little joy.
youngnug
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:33 pm


Postby Tall Tone » Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:05 pm

Hi
The fact the stain is for internal/external use and not suitable for floors would indicate that Ronseal expect adhesion problems between the two products, probably due to the stain being water repelant and the lacquer being water based.

Nitromors is strong stuff and will strip paint and other surfaces, I am not so sure about stains in the wood. Contact Henkel and ask them. If you do use it I have an important word for you "Ventilation". Dichloromethane and Methanol in a small space will give you one hell of a hangover the following day if you don't take precautions.

If you remove the stain I would suggest a different stain before using your Ronseal lacquer.
Regards
TT
Tall Tone
Posts: 66
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:35 pm


Postby youngnug » Fri Feb 01, 2008 8:29 am

TT,
I used the nitromors last night and it did the trick, it removed the stain or most of it leaving an even surface slightly darker than the original sanded floor that I started with. I will need to look into what I use now to stain. The floor actually looks pretty good the way it is at the moment a kind of weathered effect.
I am also trying to get the hardwood fixings/skirting/doors to match this floor. I thought the satin cherrywood looked good on the hardwood but on the sanded floor it was a bit orange so will need to try and match up maybe with slightly darker stain on floor.

Thanks
TT
youngnug
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:33 pm


Display posts from previous
Sort by
Order by


 


  • Related Topics

cron