Changing Room Thermostat
Help and information on all topics relating to your central heating, air conditioning and ventilation issues.

6 posts   •   Page 1 of 1
JayBentley
Labourer
Labourer
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:05 pm

Changing Room Thermostat

Post by JayBentley » Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:18 pm

I currently have a ACL TS142 thermostat which has decided to no longer work. I've been to heating shop and been sold a RTS6, however this required more wires than i have available. Back to the shop and I've returned with another type which has really bad instructions and no name or make on the casing or the box. Can anyone out there advise me on the correct thermostat I need, bearing in mind I have wires as follows:

RED, BLUE,YELLOW and GREEN & YELLOW.

Please help me and the missus are freezing!!!!

plumbbob
Project Manager
Project Manager
Posts: 1892
Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 9:59 pm

Post by plumbbob » Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:39 pm

Any volt free thermostat will do ie, a battery model.

Generally with digital thermostats the neutral is unused.

Your wiring is most likely to be, and of course we have to be a little careful here as colours mean little.....

Green/ Yellow = earth
Red = Live / Common
Blue = Neutral - Unused
Yellow = Power to boiler - connect to N/C

sparx
Project Manager
Project Manager
Posts: 2166
Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 8:33 pm
Location: The fifth continent.

Post by sparx » Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:44 pm

Hi, the RTS6 would have done fine, just needed link between Live & Com.
entered each number in turn in Google, drawings showing connections straight away! Ensure power to boiler circuit is off before starting!!!
As plumbbob says not everyone uses same colours but I would expect RED = live in
YELLOW = switch line out to 'call' boiler (should have red sleeving to show it's a live wire)
BLUE = Neutral - used by most non electronic 'stats to operate an internal heater to keep control within 1.5 Deg of setting.
Green/Yellow earth which some stats don't have term. for, fit in small connector block behind stat if not required.
BTW the acl TS142 is available on 'fleabay' i've just discovered.
regards Sparx

JayBentley
Labourer
Labourer
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:05 pm

Stat Problems!

Post by JayBentley » Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:06 am

Thanx for the advice gentleman, on my way to work I shall be picking up the RTS6 again! But Sparx, as a bit of a novice (Chef by Trade!), I'm wondering what/how i create a link between Live and Common? The lack of a wire for the Common connection led me to return the RTS6 originally.

JayBentley
Labourer
Labourer
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:05 pm

Post by JayBentley » Fri Oct 23, 2009 4:07 pm

I know have the RTS6 stat, fixed back plate to wall, attached wires as follows per diagram: Blue- N, Red-L, Yellow-3 (call for heat), yellow/green-earth. As u advised Sparx I looped a piece of wire from L to 1(common), however I still have nothing happening and according to diagram I should have a wire for terminal 2 (call for cooling). Please help me out guys this is driving me nuts!!!

plumbbob
Project Manager
Project Manager
Posts: 1892
Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 9:59 pm

Post by plumbbob » Sat Oct 24, 2009 3:40 pm

I thought the best thing to do is download the manual for the RTS6 but i can't find it only a RTS1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 9 and 10. It is Drayton isn't it?

The wire to cooling is not used in a heating system.

How you wired it should work assuming the colours are connected as a standard but as we both said, that is a bit of guesswork.

Join the red and yellow wires together and leave the rest. The boiler should fire up when the power is on. This will prove the wiring and discount a problem elsewhere.

More information please.

6 posts   •   Page 1 of 1