Cutting an oak 40mm oak worktop


Postby jagdeepp » Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:25 pm

hi guys.. first post on here.

Need urgent advice. I Have got a 3mtr solid oak worktop which is 600mm in width and 40mm in depth. I need to cut out 2.1 mtrs which will be perfect to fit in my office.

This is to be supported by battens on both sides of the wall. The rear of it wont be supported by battens since its up against a suspended unit i've built in the wall. I've therefore put a batten across half way through from the left wall to the right.

I am massively concerned about cutting this and getting it right. I have a circular saw, a jigsaw and a hand saw. I cut it down a little on purchase to get it into the car with a circular saw. This caused chippings in the wood which are not attractive. I want a good finish. I think i may've pushed the circular saw through when cutting it. Which is my best option for cutting?

When i use a jigsaw its hard to get a straight line and when i examine it it becomes clear that things have been cut at an angle even though the jigsaw was held down.

Any and all advice appreciated please.

Also, any tips on supporting the worktop? Will it warp? should i stain both sides of it?

Look forward to hearing from you guys.

Jag
jagdeepp
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:17 pm

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Postby quicksilver600 » Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:54 pm

Hi
my first post on here as well just browsing when i saw your question

There are a few ways of cutting your oak, the way have always used is with a router but seeing as you dont have one.

Did the oak spelch (chippings) on the opposite side to what you cut , normal chipwood worktops are cut upside down to prevent spelch on the working side. this is due to the cut of the blade.

you may need to replace the blade on your circular have a look and see if there are any teeth missing or it is a rough cutting blade, more teeth cleaner cut

i wouldnt use the jig saw as its quite hard to get a nice line freehand

I would personaly use the circular , it would be advisable to put a fence/batton on the worktop in order for the saw to be guided across the cutting line a bit of 2x1 should do it clamped down or screwed into the worktop (underside of course) and take your time

Measure twice cut once!!!

The top wont warp as long as its not wet then put into a warm dry enviroment

best thing to finnish with would be danish oil it will give you a satin finnish and is scratch and waterproof after around four coats , i think its seven for a kitchen top but they get a lot of hammer.


hope this helps
quicksilver600
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:36 pm


Postby jagdeepp » Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:54 pm

hey..thanks for the responses. :x Sorted it anyway.. if it helps anyone, i used a circular saw and let it take itself through, i just guided it along. Used an electric planer to trim bits to get it to fit perfectly.
jagdeepp
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:17 pm


Postby quicksilver600 » Wed Jan 02, 2008 11:08 pm

mj
quicksilver600
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2008 10:36 pm


Postby blues brothers » Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:29 am

To cut your work top accurately and cleanly the only tool to use is a
router and work top jig, both of which can be hired by the day. Should you go down this road make sure you read the safety and operation instructions that come with the machine.

Regards Blues Brother
blues brothers
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:18 am


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