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    Dual flush adjustment?








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    5 posts • Page 1 of 1

    Dual flush adjustment?

    Postby ant1 » Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:46 am

    Hello all,

    I have a toilet fitted with dual-flush operated by a large button mounted on the lid, with a smaller button inset. The unit is not cable operated and the only identification is "NF" moulded into the top. Water level is good, no problem there. I can't see anything in the projects, or by searching the forum, which helps.

    It's a tall plastic thing with a vertical sliding rod (click-stops) on the back, click-stop adjustable for the lid height setting and an associated curved rod to adjust the amount by which the valve projects at the bottom. There is a click-stopped cover on the front to vary the entry hole for water into the body of the thing.

    I've had two or three plumbers trying to get this thing to work, all they seem able to achieve is for it to give a main flush lasting as long as the short one. The latest has been here today, he's replaced it with a new one which is identical. I'm assured that there are no setting-up instructions, which seems very odd.

    I stripped the old one to see what could be learned. Not enough! I can see how the short flush works, albeit it only just works as the lever at the back can't be very buoyant. I understand the full-flush mechanism. I cannot decide why it needs an adjustable opening or what effect it might have, and the floats don't appear to leak at all.

    It ought to work! Two other toilets in the house are fine, all were replaced after leakage problems. The obvious thing to do would be to investigate one of the others but it all looks so touchy that I'm loth to disturb them!

    All advice would be very gratefully received -

    Regards Ant
    ant1
     
    Posts: 11
    Joined: Sun May 18, 2008 11:23 am
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    Postby James1000 » Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:59 pm

    There are so many of these push button valves now its hard to visualize which one you have ,as a guide the hole in the side with the adjustable opening will vary the amount of water in the flush keep it closed for full flush.
    Once the height is set to match the cistern you may then have to fiddle with that other vertical sliding rod to make it work correctly.
    They are all a pain ,i also find being a bit generous with the water level can help.
    James1000
     
    Posts: 12
    Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:40 am
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    Postby ant1 » Sat Mar 20, 2010 10:05 pm

    Thankyou James,

    These carry two logos, "NF" and "W" which may mean something to someone. I took the old one apart and figured out how it worked; I think it has two problems, apart from the fact that it barely works!

    One is that the little lever which engages for part-flush isn't very buoyant so it may not always catch to await the descent of the cancelling float. I shall try adding a small float to it.

    T'other is that the float which catches in for full flush also appears not to be able to catch properly, whether that's lack of buoyancy or the valve plunger not rising quite enough I'm not sure.

    It would help if there was some small adjustment on the operating mechanism but hey, that might put a penny on the price...

    I decided not to investigate the working ones - let sleeping dogs lie!

    Regards Ant
    ant1
     
    Posts: 11
    Joined: Sun May 18, 2008 11:23 am
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    Postby James1000 » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:00 pm

    The "NF" logo is something to do with French Regs you will find it on all sorts of things from Towel rails to electrical goods i think its something like our kite mark .
    There are better quality valves out there but to change over will mean taking the cistern off to get to the back nut
    best of luck .

    James
    James1000
     
    Posts: 12
    Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:40 am
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    Postby ant1 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:47 pm

    Thankyou James, understood - if I get as far as needing to take the cistern off it'll be to fit a syphon!

    Regards Ant
    ant1
     
    Posts: 11
    Joined: Sun May 18, 2008 11:23 am
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    5 posts • Page 1 of 1

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