For the oven you are on the border line as 7.2kw is around 31amps, but it is a 6 mm cable that is rated at 41amp, so you could replace the fuse to a 40amp version. (fuse cost about £5 + Fitting) The only thing now, is the oven on another circuit/fuse?. Its only a low wattage oven but i personally not a lover of using the oven circuit for both the hob & oven.
There are reference methods 100, 101, 102, and 103 plus A, B, C, D but there is no reference method 1. So the installation certificate tells us very little. However in general we have diversity which allows for a cooker to be supplied from a overload which seems at first glance to be too small.
With an induction hob very little power is wasted so to maintain 4 pans at boiling point uses less energy with induction hobs than with other electric hobs so even though it may seem a bigger hob in real terms it uses less power.
My stand alone cooker is rated at around 60A but has never tripped the recommended B32 MCB although it can draw 60 amp it can't draw it for long enough to trip the overload. Even if it did the only harm is cooling fans on the cooker stop and food in the cupboards either side could get too hot.
So in real terms you have no problem with the units you have selected,
The only real problem is lack of control. Induction hobs react in seconds so when a pan starts to biol over there is no need to move the pan you just turn off the heat. However touch controls can't be operated in seconds if often takes multiple touches to turn off the heat by which time the pan has boiled over. Knobs work far better.
Also digital displays look great from above. But children or people in wheel chairs can't see the display because of the angle of view. Again knobs work far better.
Learn from my mistake and select a model with knobs. I now have one with knobs and it is so much easier to use. I had not realised the problem until my mothers was fitted and she simply could not use it in a wheel chair and it had to be ripped out and replaced.
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