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6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I am trying to fix a 2 bar spotlight to the wall with no wire fixings near the wall location.
Can I run the wire to the nearest socket and use a normal plug rather than connect to the wiring system of the socket?
This will make life some much easier.
The regulations are not too clear as what is a new circuit but I think this would be seen as one. It does not matter if plugged in or wired direct it is if it's fixed or not that matters so wall lights are fixed. As long as it is fused at no more than 5 amp then you could take it from power but it is not a good idea as people expect it to come from lighting and expect if they turn off the lighting MCB they are safe removing broken bulbs etc. This of course would not be the case if plugged into socket so not a good idea.
I would think you would have problems getting an electrician to wire in this way and as I have said before if your not an electrician filling in the paperwork required under Part P is not easy.
So although it may be possible to wire to socket I would not do it myself and I would wire to lighting circuit.
All best Eric
A plug top is not the best way of doing this, however I don't think there is anything technically wrong with doing it that way if you want it done as a diy job. If it's on a plug top it's not "hard wired" so does not form a part of the electrical installation for that dwelling as far as i am concerned, fixed or not.
I'm sure you'll get some more opinions on this.
Part p not required. As previously stated a minimum of a 5a fuse in the plug top is.
I think kuzz meant to say
MAXIMUM 5 amp
Even 3 amp would proberly be sufficient
Make sure to use 3 core cable if fitting needs to be earthed.
Although not the best way
If you do do it your way would recomend using flexible cable.
Providing you are not burying the cable in the wall,
and you make sure cable is secure into the light fitting and suitably glanded /terminated.
It should not be a problem
Would not recomend using twin and earth cable as not suitable for the job or going into the plugtop
Page 9 h. The installation of fixed equipment is within the scope of Part P, even where the final connection is by a 13A plug and socket. However, work is notifiable only if it involves fixed wiring and the installation of a new circuit or the extension of a circuit in a kitchen or special location or associated with a special installation.
On a personal note I don't agree with Part P for DIY but do for trade people. The DIY will still go on but now with less ability to get their work checked it will go underground. So I still give advise.
3 and 13 amp fuses are the two preferred sizes although others exist since they are not used with PAT tested equipment they are harder to find. They are when used in plugs to protect the cable not the item used which if it requires protection should have the device built into the equipment. (Because in other countries in EU there are no fuses in plugs).
I recommended 5 amp max as this is normal as max for lighting circuits but 3 amp would be enough in fact unless more than 200 watt is used a 1 amp would do the job.
On alarm insulation jobs I have used silicon sealant to glue wires up room corners etc. Looks better than rows of clips. Used selotape masking tape or insulation tape to hold while it sets. 1mm flex may be also stuck in this way.
Surface wiring is in some ways safer as it can be seen and it is unlikely to get screws and nails in it but the practice of running cables under carpets I think is very dangerous.
Most wall lamps will not be designed for surface cables and some common sense is required as to how to terminate the cable. Some form of cable clamping is needed.
My wall lights were designed to screw onto a conduit box others onto switch boxes and some seem to expect cables to take up no room at all and are very hard to fit. One can only advise when all facts are known but I am sure you can use common sense.
All best Eric
6 posts • Page 1 of 1