Furthermore screw's are alway's used that are flush with the hinge countersink holes or slightly less.
This house is quite old and the frames are not plumb anymore but i am fitting the door to the frame, no doubt many door's are hung by amateurs with these problems, but a built in door opener (see ist post) where the door instead of closing swings back on lot's of the diyer's on this forum .
Well can alway's go open plan with Spanish arches.
sounds to me like the door stop is fouling on the door. watch it close and see if it binds on the door stop or even just comes into contact with it before the door has fully closed. if so, remove door stop and refit.
Sounds like to me like the door in binding against the door casing as you close the door. Take the door off and put a square on the hinge side and on the top of the door to see its square. When I shave a door I will angle it slightly so the side of the door that closes into the casing is slightly less than the other side of the door.
Also check the casing itself. If you look at the rebate you may see it angles in, so when the door goes to shut the width from door leg to door leg is narrower, resulting it the door itself touches the rebate before its shut. This will make the door spring back on itself slightly or require force to squash the door closed.
If the door is failing to close , ie an inch away from the door lining it sounds like the hinges are binding but that should be obvious when looking at the hinge stile when closing the door. The hinges should really only be rebated the thickness of the flange of the hinge your fitting. To ensure a clean shut also fit door stops last after all locks latches etc. This will cater for warped door problems. If fitting to a 'new ' door to an existing door lining for best results the door stops will need to be removed and adjusted to fit new door characteristics