Moving a cooker point 10" Right of old cooker point...

[timeemit]

Help, I need some advise on moving a cooker point 8" right of old cooker point as new kitchen design means that cooker has also moved about 8" to the right, which is directly under the old cooker point.

Is it possible to use connectors for cooker cable inside the old cooker point and extend to a new cooker point about 8" to the right. Also to use blank plate on old cooker point and plaster over as it is above new cooker position????

Any help would be great.

Cheers,
Timeemit

[kbrownie]

timeemit,
Is there a hob above the cooker, if so how high is the original point? as this could be an issue regarding heat.
You can't put a terminal block in back box to make a joint, then blank it and plaster over that as all joints like this should be left so you know a live cable is routed through that area and all joints like this should be made easily accessible too. In case of faults so can be inspected.
KB

[timeemit]

[quote="kbrownie"]timeemit,
Is there a hob above the cooker, if so how high is the original point? as this could be an issue regarding heat.
You can't put a terminal block in back box to make a joint, then blank it and plaster over that as all joints like this should be left so you know a live cable is routed through that area and all joints like this should be made easily accessible too. In case of faults so can be inspected.
KB[/quote]

Thanks..KB

1.The original switched dbl pole cooker point will be 330mm directly above the hob. I would like to move it slightly to the right so not as to be directly over hob, to a sgl pole cooker switch.

2. Thinking now to see if there is enough slack in ceiling void to pull extra cable down to new point. If not maybe connection in original backbox with a metal blankplate exposed above hob, messing up the whole splash back idea, MISSES WILL BE HAPPY....NOT.lol

Another thing am i right in saying that if my hob is 5.8kw and oven is 2.5kw = 8.3kw its ok to go with existing 6mm cable, 45A single pole cooker switch with a 40A CU fuse.

[kbrownie]

Hi timeemit,
Your cooker switch should be at least 300mm but no greater than 2 metres to the side of the hob, to prevent thermal effect of the hob and ease of isolation. So I'd try extending the cable. You can use to cooking appliances off the same switch providing the current rating is between 15-50amps.
I work out even applying diversty that the current will be about 36amp providing no socket outlet on cooker switch, if there is it will change assuming the cable is not routed through thermal insulation should be okay with 6mm cable.
But you need switch to be at side of appliances, may be an idea to crimp the joints or see if you can move vertical drop of cable at ceiling void across wall.
KB

[timeemit]

Cheers KB,

Thanks for your assistance, did what you said regarding finding a little more cable in void but only just achieved the down drop into new single back box 330mm above and 100mm right of hob. Could not go any further to the right...

Is this still a problem with the heat values and stuff?????

Thanks Fella,

Timeemit

[kbrownie]

Hi timeemit,
The recommendation I gave you regarding 300mm is a guideline given by part p of the the building regulation concerning cooker circuits, the requirement within BS7671:2008(requirements for electrical installations) which is the electricians bible regarding the regulations, is a little vague but the suggestion is it should not be directly above the appliance but within 2 metres.
So I'd say you are okay as long as no socket outlet is on the cooker control switch, as it's a guide as far as part p and not an absolute and BS7671 says not directly above, so it complies.
KB

[timeemit]

Hi KB, just quick note to say thanks. cooker is gonna now be on a single switched cooker point 330mm above and 100mm to the side... got cable there now fingers crossed bud...

all the best and thanks again 'Mr Electrical Oracle'....lol

Timeemit

[johnelectrical]

Please remember cables buried in a wall which are not mechanically protected that is in earthed heavy gage steel conduit, must run vertically or horizontally from the accessory. that means if the original cable ran vertically up or down the wall and you move it side ways the vrtical cable will no longer be above or below its new location.

Also diversity is about assuming maximum demand for an installation or distribution board not a single circuit. you can use it to work out the size of the tails supplying a board.

the problem with using the diversity tables in the onsite guide is the cooker may wel have every burner and oven running at the same time at christmas for instance. a 32amp breaker will take about 15minutes to trip at a constant 50amps which will cook the cables. ie fire risk.

when doing any electrical work in the kitchen, bathroom outside or with extra low voltage part P of the building regulations require the work to be done by a registered competent person. if not you are not only breaking the law (the building act) but you may well invalidate your buildings insurance if your house burns down due to an electrical fire

[kbrownie]

I thought we'd already establihed vertical drop, but johnelectrical has mentioned a few points that I should have earlier on in post regarding permitted routes and of course part p and BS7671 should be complied.
I'm was also assuming circuit has RCD protection too!
KB