Problem re-locating my toilet


Postby timsad » Tue May 25, 2010 1:18 pm

Hi,
Been looking for parts for my project but no joy, and tripped over this site which looks excellent and I hope someone can help.
I’m re-organising the contents of our en-suite, and want to move the toilet along the wall a couple of feet to accommodate some re-designing.
My problem is that my soil stack is internal to the house, and immediately behind the wall where the toilet is currently situated.
I expected that it would be a simple job of finding parts to create an elongated S so that I can come out of the back of the toilet, turn 90 degrees and run along the wall, then turn 90 degrees and go thru the existing 4 inch pipe through my wall into the stack.
I’ve found a variety of parts, including the flexible ones, which unfortunately are too short to cover the distance required, and the fixed ones, which I can get from the first 90 degree turn, and run along the wall, but I cant find anything to enable me to make the second 90 degree turn into the 4 inch pipe hole in my wall.
Appreciate it if anyone can offer advice.
Thx, Tim.
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Postby plumbbob » Tue May 25, 2010 10:38 pm

timsad wrote:Hi,
I cant find anything to enable me to make the second 90 degree turn into the 4 inch pipe hole in my wall.


I can't understand your exact problem here. There should be several ways of overcoming any difficulty. You could remove the existing 4" pipe from the "T" in the stack and replace it with a proper 4" grey elbow. You might just put a 4" elbow (with or without a socket) on the existing pipe or you could fit a right angled pan connector into the existing pipe and extend it to your new position.

Tip. Check the fall as moving the toilet away from its original position may result in loss of flow.
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Postby timsad » Wed May 26, 2010 9:59 am

hi, thx for your interest.
my problem is that the stack is inaccessible unless i remove the wall so i'm trying to find a solution that doesn't need me to do this.
i'd hoped that i could find part/s that would allow me to simply 'plug' into the existing pipe, but so far i've been unsuccessful. If it wasn't quite so far, i could have used one of the flexible connectors as it has suitable connections at each end ie one to fit over the toilet exit, and one to plug into my existing pipe. If i'm to achieve my aim of not having to remove the wall, I believe I need to either find a longer flexible connector, or a collection of other parts that can simulate this ie when i put them together i end up with the same end conenctors that are fitted to the flexible ones.
Hope this makes sense & thanks again for your help.
PS I've already checked the height of the exit from the toilet & have approaching a couple of inches so believe this will suffice for the flow to run ok.
regards, tim
timsad
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2010 12:07 pm


Postby plumbbob » Wed May 26, 2010 6:49 pm

timsad wrote: ......and one to plug into my existing pipe.


Is your existing pipe 4"plastic? Have you removed the existing pan connector?

This fitting should fit over your existing pipe

http://www.awin1.com/awclick.php?mid=12 ... Grey-SP161

They also do a male version of the fitting.

Another possibility

http://www.awin1.com/awclick.php?mid=12 ... -Connector

Use two of these and a length of pipe.

I don't recommend flexible connectors when running horizontally as they reduce the flow rate and hence the efficiency of the flush.
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Postby timsad » Sun May 30, 2010 9:27 am

hi plumbbob, thx again for your advice.
yes the existing pipe is 4" plastic, and yes i've removed the existing pan connector (which didn't look much like the ones available today, in fact it just looked like an SP104 with a seal only on one end. looks like we were lucky it remained 'water' tight).
With a little bit of manipulation of the wall ( :-) ), you're absolutely right that the SP161 type fitting will work very well. Bit embarasseed I didn't spot this myself, so thx for this.
My problem is now at the other end of my run ie where I want to connect to the toilet. I have a back to wall toilet, that will be backing onto a partition, and I want to turn 90 degrees immediately behind the partition. I've bought a fitting similar to the SP103, but when I've checked it on the toilet (clearly I should have checked measurements first, but I'm learning as I go), the length that connects to the toilet before the angle isn't long enough by around a couple of inches. Although I've seen "long" and "short" versions of these fittings, this seems to refer to the length after the bend, and I've not seen a noticable difference in lengths before the bend so I now seem to have 3 options to get me around this corner ?

So, my final questions (I hope):
- is it likely that I'll be able to find something similar to the SP103 with a longer initial length ? i suspect not, so I think my next best is.....
- using an SP101 with an SP161 ? I need to measure this to see what i end up with, but if it doesn't fit......
- how much of a bad idea will a flexible connector be ? If it's falls into the "not ideal but will work" category then I seem to be out of options and will go with this. If it's likely to end up causing problems then I guess I need a bit of a re-plan.

thx again, tim
timsad
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Joined: Tue May 25, 2010 12:07 pm


Postby plumbbob » Sun May 30, 2010 12:01 pm

timsad wrote:- is it likely that I'll be able to find something similar to the SP103 with a longer initial length ? i suspect not, so I think my next best is.....

- using an SP101 with an SP161 ? I need to measure this to see what i end up with, but if it doesn't fit......

- how much of a bad idea will a flexible connector be ? If it's falls into the "not ideal but will work" category then I seem to be out of options and will go with this. If it's likely to end up causing problems then I guess I need a bit of a re-plan.


No longer version of SP103 is available. (hunted for one myself)

You could use a SP161 and a WC-CON2 which is a longer version of SP101 (McAlpine not from Screwfix). You could use a SP104 to lengthen a SP101.

Personally, I think you will find an easier way is to use a double socket elbow (SP561) plus a small length of 4" plastic then the SP101 pan connector.

Back to wall pans have a less efficient flush even than standard close coupled pans because their cisterns are lower. I would not recommend using a flexible connector at all.
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Postby TheDoctor4 » Thu Jul 22, 2010 8:44 pm

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Postby Del12345 » Thu Mar 31, 2011 10:52 am

I often see to many facing problem related to setting up their bathroom or toilet related product while they our-self doing this thing. But they don't ever think to put these things to any toilet hardware partition supplier who alone manage all these things and provides your bathroom an outstanding look. So you should anyone take all these responsibilities to own-self.
My partition supplier would manage all these things related to my bathroom and toiletries kits, named TPH supply, so you wouldn't.
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