(re)tiling the kitchen.

Postby TheDoctor46 » Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:33 pm

I am looking to tile my kitchen. This will involve knocking the old tiles off the wall (a process that I have already undertaken in order to fit new units to the existing setup for the time being). Upon removing these tiles I invariably remove the thin layer of plaster that lies underneath them, exposing the wall itself (a sandy-like substrate).

I believe it is ok to apply adhesive directly to the wall itself rather than plastering beforehand? (in fact I have read that it is almost preferable). Obviously the surface that I am leaving to tile onto is devoid of any large imperfections (none too large in my opinion to be compensated for by the adhesive). I will of course remove any unsound material and endeavor to make the surface as even as is possible.

Is this approach likely to cause any problems?

By my current plans the tiles to be placed are fairly small. In the order of 200x300mm.

I also intend to tile the floor. Tiling onto an existing hardboard lining. Unfortunately the hardboard is "shiny-side" up but is old and worn. Will this be a problem for adhesion? can I create an acceptable surface onto which the adhesive will bond without ripping up the hardboard?
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Simply Build It

Postby chris_on_tour2002 » Tue Apr 12, 2011 10:26 pm

the sandy-like substrate is probably cement render and yes it is preferable to tile directly onto if it is sound, relatively flat and sealed correctly. plastering will just and another unnecessary layer that also becomes another potential failure point. it will add no real advantage, so tile away.

with regard to the floor, i would be inclined to put a fresh layer of hardboard face down on top of what's there, no need to remove existing layer if it's sound and flat with no bubbling. fix every 4-6 inches to ensure it does not lift.
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Postby TheDoctor46 » Fri Apr 15, 2011 8:56 pm

Thanks for your reply Chris.

I'll clear the old tiles off and assess the condition of the wall. Hopefully there will be no nasty surprises and I'll be able to tile directly onto it.

Seeing as the existing hardboard on the floor is nailed down so tight that removing it would be nigh on impossible I'll take your advice and just place new sheets down with the "keyed" side facing upwards. Given the price and time involved in tiling the floor, nailing a few new sheets of hardboard down isn't too much of a price to pay for a better job.

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