Removing an Integrated Dishwasher


Postby tonygarbutt » Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:33 am

I need to replace an integrated dishwasher. The old one is proving difficult to remove. I've retracted the front feet and dragged it out a little - maybe a quarter of an inch and its stuck. It could be the rear feet but I can't reach them. Any ideas?

thanks

Tony.
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Postby Kenj » Sat Mar 08, 2008 10:45 am

This is not easy, which probably accounts for the lack of response to this question.
I have only fitted one integrated washing machine, and I cut an access hole at the rear of an adjacent unit, and left about 2 inches on each side to prevent just such a problem.
With no side access your only chance is to raise the worktop a little. Undo any screws in adjacent units that secure the base units to the worktop. Also any battening securing the worktop to the back wall, if accessible. You may need to cut any silicaone sealant joining worktop to tiles.
Sorry I can't be of any more help. The people who fit these things should consider how to gain service access before just ramming them in.
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Postby ALDA » Sat Mar 08, 2008 1:22 pm

TONY,

A BIT OF SCIENCE IS NEEDED TO SOLVE THIS ONE.

ONLY A SUGGESTION BUT IT MIGHT JUST WORK. WORTH A TRY!!!

HERE GOES, IN FOR A SHILLING IN FOR A POUND!

IS THERE SUFFICIENT ROOM SO THAT A LENGTH OF TIMBER DOWEL OR METAL ROD/TUBE (SAME WIDTH AS DISHWASHER)CAN BE SLID INTO POSITION HALF WAY BACK UNDER DISHWASHER PROVIDING A FULCRUM POINT WHERE THE APPLIANCE CAN BE LIFTED SLIGHTLY AT THE REAR AND ROLLED OUT.

GO ON, GIVE IT A GO!

GOOD LUCK.

ALDA.
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Postby rosebery » Sat Mar 08, 2008 4:23 pm

Take the plinth off the bottom of the cabinets - should be just clipped to the cabinet legs.

Then you can see what's stopping it - you'll have about 4 inches to see what's going on.

Then you can get your hand in or whatever to sort it.

Please DONT try it from above - lifting the worktop is potentially going to buy you stacks of trouble.

Cheers
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Postby Kenj » Sun Mar 09, 2008 5:21 pm

Tonygarbutt must already have removed the plinth to have retracted the front feet.
To access and raise the rear feet he will almost certainly need to gain side access from both sides. That is why I suggested that raising the worktop a little (1/3 to 1/2 of an inch will probably do).
The appliance may be wedged in between the floor and the underside of the worktop. Which means that you either have to lower the rear feet, raise the worktop, or lower the floor.
The worktop is the last thing to fit when building a fitted kitchen, and the dishwasher could have been there when the worktop was fitted, and never have been out.
So come on Tony let us know how you got on. There is an appalling lack of feedback from people posing questions on this forum!
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Postby rosebery » Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:50 pm

[quote="Kenj"]Tonygarbutt must already have removed the plinth to have retracted the front feet."

That's not necessarily so. I don't make assumptions.


[quote="Kenj"]To access and raise the rear feet he will almost certainly need to gain side access from both sides."

I agree. This can normally be accomplished from underneath. However it's really a good idea to have had a look to see what is causing the obstruction.

[quote="Kenj"]That is why I suggested that raising the worktop a little (1/3 to 1/2 of an inch will probably do)."

I see several problems with this suggestion which is why I (my opinion) don't recommend it as follows:

1. Where is the sink relative to the problem area? If the taps are connected with copper you'll most likely get water all over the floor when you lift the worktop or at the very least stress the joints leading to future leaks.

2. To raise it 1/2 inch in the problem area how far do you have to raise it at it's farthest point if it's say 2 metres away? Do the geometry.

3. The worktop will have to be completely unscrewed from the units below and all sealant removed. If the tiler has tiled down to it then you'll be taking off the lowest level of tiles as well!

4. If it's a galley kitchen you might get away with all the above. If its a properly mitred and jointed worktop with a return you'll never lift it and keep the joint in one piece. Worktop bolts stressed, jointing paste seal broken etc etc.

Is it worth it? No if you don't want a big bill to put it right afterwards.

[quote="Kenj"]The appliance may be wedged in between the floor and the underside of the worktop. Which means that you either have to lower the rear feet,"

Exactly, get the hand underneath and lower the feet by the normal screw action if this is the case.

[quote="Kenj"].....raise the worktop, or lower the floor."

The former being impractical IMO for the reasons I state above and the latter - well!

[quote="Kenj"]The worktop is the last thing to fit when building a fitted kitchen, and the dishwasher could have been there when the worktop was fitted, and never have been out."

Tiles are normally last but I agree with the rest of the para.

[quote="Kenj"]So come on Tony let us know how you got on. There is an appalling lack of feedback from people posing questions on this forum!"

Now there you are absolutely correct.

Cheers
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Postby Kenj » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:15 am

I would be interested to know how Tonygarbutt could have retracted the front feet without removing the plinth. Unless of course he removed the adjacent plinths. And if he did this is is extremely unlikely that he has not also removed the appliance plinth as well.

He also says "It could be the rear feet but I can't reach them. Any ideas?".
He has told us that he cannot get to the rear feet to lower them. This implies that the unit is too low to the ground to get his arm in from the front.

Assuming he does not have a granite worktop and has a melamine one. This should flex the desired amount if not next to a mitre joint. A melamine worktop is only a lump of conte board or chip board with a plastic top coating.

It is quite possible that the kitchen floor has been tiled but not all the way back to the wall. If this is so the rear feet may be 1/2 an inch below the level of the front ones. This can be verified by removing the plinth from a standard base unit and looking under it.

Anyway there is little point in our continued bickering when tonygarbutt cannot be bothered to reply to any of our suggestions.
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Postby rosebery » Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:17 pm

[quote="Kenj"]I would be interested to know how Tonygarbutt could have retracted the front feet without removing the plinth. Unless of course he removed the adjacent plinths. And if he did this is is extremely unlikely that he has not also removed the appliance plinth as well."

Indeed. We are slightly at cross purposes then. I was talking about the adjacent plinths although on reflection I didn't make that entirely clear.

"He also says "It could be the rear feet but I can't reach them. Any ideas?". He has told us that he cannot get to the rear feet to lower them. This implies that the unit is too low to the ground to get his arm in from the front."

I quite agree he probably can't get to them if he's trying to access from the front. Taking the side plinths off would give him that access a) to see and b) to adjust the rear feet without having to go through all the trauma
of lifting the worktop.

"Assuming he does not have a granite worktop and has a melamine one. This should flex the desired amount if not next to a mitre joint. A melamine worktop is only a lump of conte board or chip board with a plastic top coating."

Yeh OK then - try it. They weigh a ton and don't flex!

"It is quite possible that the kitchen floor has been tiled but not all the way back to the wall. If this is so the rear feet may be 1/2 an inch below the level of the front ones. This can be verified by removing the plinth from a standard base unit and looking under it."

Yes - that's what I'm driving at so perhaps we have the same point of view after all. If the tiler did it properly the tiles only go an inch or so under the units so that the plinth sits on top. It's possibly the front feet that are catching in this case but I'd rather hear from him on a step by step basis before suggesting that.

"Anyway there is little point in our continued bickering when tonygarbutt cannot be bothered to reply to any of our suggestions."

Who's bickering? I'm not. You made a suggestion to the OP which I don't happen to agree with and which buy him a whole host of trouble IMHO - hence my post. In any case I would have thought (hoped) that this discussion may actually be of some use those that just lurk. After all this thread has been read iro 120 times already.

Cheers
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Postby Kenj » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:00 pm

I am sorry rosebery, you have lost me with the statement below.

" I quite agree he probably can't get to them if he's trying to access from the front. Taking the side plinths off would give him that access a) to see and b) to adjust the rear feet without having to go through all the trauma
of lifting the worktop. "

The fitted kitchens that I have seen have plinths at the front. The sides of the fitted units go all the way down from the worktop to the floor. This is what the worktop is supported by. There is no side access between adjacent units. That is why when I fitted a kitchen I cut a hole at the lower rear side of the sink unit - to provide just such an access to an integrated washer dryer.
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Postby rosebery » Tue Mar 11, 2008 7:41 am

Oh I see what you mean. I don't know of any kitchen base units these days that don't have adjustable legs for ease of installation. The days of solid chipboard sides down to floor level for each unit have long gone. Effectively the space underneath is wide open - apart from the odd leg sticking down of course.

Can't post links here but check out the kitchen planning bit of the projects section or any of the sponsoring links and you'll see what I mean.



Cheers
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Postby Kenj » Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:20 pm

Quote - "The days of solid chipboard sides down to floor level for each unit have long gone."

Not that long ago I am affraid. I installed one less than 2 years ago!

And as most people keep a kitchen for at least 10 years, they willl be around for a good while yet.
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Postby rosebery » Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:20 am

"Kenj" Not that long ago I am affraid. I installed one less than 2 years ago!

Oh well I never pretend to be always right! :lol: Haven't seen one like that for ages. Must have been in the wrong houses :)

Might be nice if the OP told us though - then we can stop speculating!.

Cheers
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Postby Kenj » Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:17 pm

Actually rosebery you are probably right.
The kitchen I installed 2 years ago did on reflection have legs.
I remembered about an hour after posting my reply., but could not edit it.
The access hole I recalled cutting was at the top of the adjacent unit for easier access to the cold feed and waste pipes.

Cheers
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Postby BraegHeneffe » Tue Apr 15, 2008 4:04 pm

I almost managed it myself, but when I was buying my new one I spoke to the company I was buying from and they went through the whole process on the phone with me! I would recommend giving them a call for advice
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