Salamander Shower Pump - problems

Postby LC22 » Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:46 am

We recently had fitted a Salamander CT50+ shower pump. It is located in the kitchen, next to the hot water cylinder, which is below the bathroom. When we turned the shower pump on, it would not come on unless we turned the thermostat from hot to cold or "flicked" the actual shower pump. We therefore had the pump replaced (by the same people who installed the first one) and the problem has occurred again (but it is not continuous, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't).

It may not be relevant but the pressure of the hot water tap in the kitchen is low and we wondered whether there was any connection.

Any help solving this problem greatly appreciated.
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Postby MichalRight » Mon Feb 20, 2012 10:27 am

I think you should change your shower pump. if you not change it then it will problem again.
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Postby plumbbob » Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:00 am

shower pumps use the flow of water to trigger the pump so if the natural water pressure is low it may not be sufficient to trigger the pump.

You may find either the shower valve or the pump ( both even) have sprung non return valves fitted which offer sufficient resistance to stop the flow thus preventing the pump from kicking in.

Providing the shower is completely isolated from the mains water (ie, fed from a header tank) then these non return valves can be removed and the problem will go away. It's a common problem.
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Postby Myra Hush » Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:56 pm

Change your shower pump to avoid problems again.

Salamander RHP 100 Pump has a unique protection device to protect the pump in use and is suitable for pumping the whole house, bathroom/or shower and can be used when the hot or cold tap is used at the same time.
Myra Hush
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Postby rahul » Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:13 pm

Sir, i have a 500 litre cold storage tank fitted way back on the slab/Terrace of my bungalow. Now we found this tank insufficient for use, so we have bought a new 1000 litre cold water storage tank and want to JOIN BOTH THESE TANKS TOGETHER so as to achieve a storage target of 1000+500 i.e 1500 litres for use.
Now my confusion is that how to join both of these tanks??
Is it necessary to level both the tanks on the same height??
Plumber says that no need to level them from top position, instead he says to level them from Bottom and tells to FIT A NON RETURN VALVE at the base of the bigger tank so as to avoid the BACKFLOW of the water into another tank.
will this NON RETURN VALVE avoid the BACKFLOW.
I want that both of the tanks should be filled at the same time and should also empty at the same time.
Please suggest me on the same as early as possible.
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Postby plumbbob » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:42 pm

It is essential to position the tanks in such a way that when both are full, the distance between the water level and the the top edge of the tank must be equal. ie, the height of the tanks must be equal.

You cannot use valves to control the levels of water between tanks. For one thing, if the backflow valve failed it would cause a flood. More importantly, it is essential to allow the water to flow freely between tanks to maintain a movement of fresh water removing the possibility of one tank becoming stagnant.

Once levelled, link both tanks together at the bottom using pipe having a minimum diameter of 28mm. Make sure the feed is into one tank and the outlet is taken from the other tank. Under no circumstances should the incoming and outgoing water connections be from one tank.
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Postby ShowerTech » Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:10 pm

Have you spoken to Salamander?
They deal with these types of problems all day and will be the best people to speak to, you can call them on...
0191 516 2002 (technical)
or email them
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Postby rahul » Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:50 am

Thanks Plumbob. I have done the same thing as u suggested and now we have plenty storage of water.
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