Price Doctor - Extension quote and price checking software

Save up to 50 percent off subcriptions to some of the best DIY and Home Improvement magazines


DIYDoctor
DIYDoctor
Home   Contact   DIY How-to Projects
  • Forum Index
  • FAQ
  • Search
  • Login
  • Register
  • Board index ‹ DIY and Home Improvement Forums ‹ Carpentry & Joinery
  • FOLLOW US
    Twitter Logo Facebook Logo YouTube Logo
    • HOME
    • DIY PROJECTS
    • DIY TIPS AND TRICKS
    • REVIEWS
    • GARDENING
    • DIY VIDEOS
    • GREEN LIVING
    • HIPS
    • FIND TRADESMEN
    • PRICE DOCTOR
    • FORUM
    • BLOG
    • NEWS LETTER SIGNUP
    • SHOP
    • SUPPLIERS
    • ADVERTISE HERE
    • PRESS



     
    Recommend This Page
    Tweet



    #
    Trustmark and the NHIC
    DIY Doctor are
    members of:

    National Home Improvement Council
    Trustmark - Government Endorsed Standards
    #



    Suspended/false/drop ceilings (how to fit)








    Post a reply




    6 posts • Page 1 of 1

    Suspended/false/drop ceilings (how to fit)

    Postby danfenn » Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:45 pm

    I'm looking to put in a ceiling to help with running electrical wiring around my house. The existing ceiling is concrete which isone reason why I want to put it in.

    What tools are recommended for the job?
    What materials would I need?

    Thanks
    danfenn
     
    Posts: 3
    Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:40 pm
    Top

    Postby Joiner_Mike » Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:13 am

    Hi
    Are you looking to put in a lowered ceiling which will be platerboarded and plastered?
    If so what is the size of the ceiling that you wish to put up? The reason i ask this is so i can tell you what size timber joists you will need to make up the framework for the plasterboards to fix to
    Joiner_Mike
     
    Posts: 74
    Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:38 am
    Top

    Postby danfenn » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:02 pm

    yes, I am looking to put in a ceiling which will be plasterboard and plastered. The room is approx 13ft x 9ft.
    danfenn
     
    Posts: 3
    Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:40 pm
    Top

    ceiling

    Postby Joiner_Mike » Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:29 pm

    Hi again
    I have drawn a diagram for you but since i am new to this i can't seem to insert it. If you give you your email address i will email you step by step instructions on fitting your new ceiling.
    It would be better if you used 4"x2" soft white wood timber for your framework due to the span. If you are looking at cost you might be able to get away with 3"x2" but if you can afford it go for the 4"x2" framework as it will be allot stronger
    Cheers
    Mike[/img]
    Joiner_Mike
     
    Posts: 74
    Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:38 am
    Top

    Instruction in fitting your ceiling

    Postby Joiner_Mike » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:52 pm

    Materials
    Red Plugs
    5" No 8 Screws (Box of 200)
    17x 10ft lengths 4"x2" white softwood (straight as possible)
    No5 X 1800mm x 900mm x 9mm Plasterboards
    Small box of plasterboard screws

    Tools
    SDS Drill with Number 6 Drill bit
    Cordless Screwdriver with PZ2 bit
    Hammer
    Tape Measure
    Pencil
    Saw (Bacho Blue Handle)
    Approx 22mm Flat drill Bit
    Level

    COMPLETING THE JOB
    First draw a level pencil line around the room on the walls at the height
    you want your ceiling
    Now fix the 4"x2" with the bottom edge flush with your pencil line. Do this
    by drilling with the sds drill though the wodd into the wall. Tapping the
    red plug into the wood. just twist the screw into the plug with your fingers
    then hammer in until screwhead is about 20mm from the wood. Then screw up with the cordless screwdriver Put about 4 every 8ft. one either end of the wood about 3 inches in and the others spead evenly inbetween.
    You can use the saw handle to mark square lines around the timber when
    cutting.
    So now you should have 4"x2" all around the room screwed to the wall giving you the outer edges of the framework.
    Now you need to measure and cut your joists to make the frame look like a big ladder. Put these in over the shortest distance (9ft Run) wedged
    inbetween the outerframe with the bottom of the timber flush with you
    outer framework.
    Screw the joist into the outer framework by screwing in 45 degrees from the 4" face. Put 2 screws in each face so 8 screws per joist.
    Now mark the positions for where your remainging joists will go. Do this
    by measuring the underside of the outerframe. Mark from your 1st joist at
    400/800/1200/1600/2000/2400/2800mm on both sides of the 13ft run.
    measure and cut you second joist and fix as before. It should now be 400mm from centre to centre of joist 1 and 2. Do this until all the joist are in and the final gap between the last joist and the outer framework is 400mm or less.
    Now you will need to run 2 rows of noggins out of the 4"x2" so when these
    are all in your frame work will look like lots of squares.
    Your fist row will be from the 13ft wall 1200mm to the centre of the noggin
    your second row of noggins will be at 2400mm from the wall to the centre.
    To fit a noggin for you light to go cut a noggin to fit the centre of the
    room but fix so the 4" face side is facing the floor. This will give a
    bigger area for your light fitting to fix to. In the centre of that noggin
    drill using the 22mm flat drill. This will enable your wire to fit though.
    Now plaster board from the wall where your first joist is. Running the
    2400mm side along the 9ft wall and the 1200mm side along the 13ft wall. It should work out that all 4 outer edges have wood supporting the plasterboard
    Screw in with the plasterboard screws so that the head of the plasterboard
    screw is flush or very slightly sunk into the plasterboard. About 5 screws
    in each joist over the 2400mm run.
    Your second plasterboard will be fitted between joist 3 and joist 6 in line
    with the first. Now finish off plasterboarding that row
    Now Cut a platerboard to fill the remainging space inbetween joist 2 and
    joist 8. and finaly screw remaining plasterboards in. the reason for this
    is so the second row of platerboards have staggered joint lines from the
    first row, which helps to preventing your ceiling plaster from cracking
    in time.
    Don't for get to put a hole in the plasterboard for your light and dangle
    the wire though so it can be fitted after plastering
    Now your ceiling is ready to be plastered
    Hope i didn't confuse you too much. Just wated to give you as much detail
    as possible. Didn't realise how much i do automatically without thinking
    Gosh my job is boring on paper lol Sorry about the essay. Hope this helps.
    Let me know how you got on...Good luck
    Joiner_Mike
     
    Posts: 74
    Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:38 am
    Top

    Postby danfenn » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:47 am

    hi,
    that would be a great help thanks, my email address is danfenn79@hotmail.com

    thanks again,
    Dan
    danfenn
     
    Posts: 3
    Joined: Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:40 pm
    Top


    Post a reply

    6 posts • Page 1 of 1

    Return to Carpentry & Joinery





     


    • { RELATED_TOPICS }
      Replies
      Views
      Last post
    • Drilling in to ceilings
      by tcurtis69 » Tue Jul 03, 2007 4:16 pm
      1 Replies
      1665 Views
      Last post by will_buckley View the latest post
      Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:54 pm
    • CRACKED CEILINGS
      by redrum » Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:24 pm
      1 Replies
      1519 Views
      Last post by DUDE DIY View the latest post
      Sat Jul 12, 2008 6:43 am
    • Lath and Plaster Ceilings
      by gorenovate » Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:05 pm
      1 Replies
      1122 Views
      Last post by stoneyboy View the latest post
      Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:46 pm

    • Board index
    • The team • Delete all board cookies • All times are UTC
    • SitemapIndex SitemapIndex
    • RSS Feed RSS Feed
    • Channel list Channel list
    Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group





    Diy Doctor Ltd  (Company No. 5863375)

    DIY  |  DIY How To  |  DIY Forum  |  Terms & Conditions  |  Privacy Policy  |  Cookie Info  

    © Copyright DIY Doctor Ltd 2011  Developed by Boson Media  Hosted by Rackspace