got some new lights halogen spotlights said on the box u can dim them wired them up no transformer or anything needed fited the dimer swwitch and its allways verry dim infact so dim it dont light the room but when i have a normal switch on im geting a tan the dimer i have is a 400w turn 1 way to dim and push to turn on and off on the back of the dimmer it says cpu-2w400
There was 3 cables coming in to the light 3 red 3 black 3 earth then 2 wires coming down to the bulb i disconected each wire 1 at a time and found out if i take 2 of the reds off it took the lights off in 1 room and the other ones took the lights out of that room so what i did was left all the wireing as it was and the wire that went down to the bulb i conected that to the spotlights so all the wireing was the same as ti was before but conected to the spotlights insted of a bulb the dimmer worked perfectly on the normal bulb but with the spotlights they will not go bright enough but as soon as i put the sntandard swithc in its works full brightness
the spotlights are 4 single lights on a squaire metal plate the winreing has 3 cables coming in 3 red 3 black 3 earth if i take 2 of the reds or black off it cuts off the next room and the others cut off that room i left the wireing as it was and conected the spotlights to the lead hanging down for the bulb then fited the lights to the celing with the old fiting inside it worked grate on a normal switch but the dimmer will not go bright enough but the dimmer works grate on a standard bulb not beeing the best with eletrics im not shure if i have the rite dimmer or that i have wired it up rite
Be what you have said the dimmer can control a power of between 60-400 watts if all your spotlight lamps are 100watt or less yhis should work fine you said that it is four single spotlights on a square plate ar all foar on the same plate or are they individual lights? (that is what I was trying to ask)
The wiring from the ceiling should be as follows all Reds connected together, with nothing else. The earths to earth terminal.
The three blacks to are two neutral and the other one is from your switch this should be marked up with a red flag or insulation sleeve.
The two neutrals connect to blue flex side of lamp terminal and the switch wire to the brown side flex terminal of lamp.
If the lights are individual spots they should be connected in a string effect with your neutral cable across the blue/neutral side of fitting and your live across the brown/live side of fitting between each light.
Only one of these lights need connecting up to the switch.
Last edited by kbrownie on Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
inside the spotlights there is a cable from each light to a conector block one of those plastic things with the screws poking out the top we call them chocolate blocks at work then from that block i put thre wire that was attached to the bulb to that there is no makring what so ever to tell me what back is what and what red is what the guy who had this hous ebefore us was a cowboy he run 5 double plug sockets a cooker an oven and a hob off 1 wire that was only ment to take 1 plug socket he just ran the wire to 1 socket then off that socket to the next then to the cooker then from the cooker to the hob ect the guy who rewired it said he was amaed the place didnt burn down the light seem to be wired up rite as the are full bring without the dimer but hardly on with the dimmer on full
sorry for beeing so dim i have tryed this on a normal light bulb and it works fine and none of the wireing has changed apart from removing a bulb and adding the lights and the dimer worked on the light in here untill i changed it over from the bulb to the spotlights
Your lighting circuit is " 3 plated", system whereby the ceiling rose is used as a junction box too.
If you have 3 pairs, ignoring the earths, three red three black, one of the black wires is not a black(neutral), it is the switch line back from the switch, and should nowadays be marked either by sleeving or by tape as a sw. live. It will be the one of the pair that doesn't affect the lights in the next room.
So separate that pair, and re-connect red to the other reds in a dummy terminal( choc block), u should then have 3 reds connected together.
You should then have 3 black wires left, 2 of them go together, and have the blue(neutral) wire of your fitting connected to them, This is particularly important if the lamps are ES( screw in). The third black wire(the one that is the same pair as the red that you put in last, and is the return from the switch, should be in a terminal by itself, and should then have the Brown wire from your fitting connected to it.
If your dimmer works on an ordinary lamp, and is 400w rated you are not overloading it with 4x50W, and it cannot be faulty. Jst do not connect any of the fitting wires to the reds, they must be seperate, and in a dummy terminal.
Essentially you have a live + neutral coming in to the ceiling point, a live and a neutral going to the next point, and a live and switch line going to the switch.
Connect nothing of your fitting to the 3 reds.
Sorry if this is long winded, but it is easy to do, but difficult to explain, but I have had many calls from people who have similar problems with 3plate systems.
Hope this helps
If not , get back to me.
after reading it a few times im still a little lost but a 4th time and a 2nd person will help the conectors to joine the wires i have a few here do they have to be a certen side as i have tiny thin ones i use in nguitar wireing and some chunky ones i havent used yet thanks for all your help
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