two coat plaster

by **lanky** » Mon Sep 08, 2008 4:37 pm

In the instructions on two coating a wall on this website it says to leave the stop beads in the wall.Do you go over these beads with the first coat? if so when the straight edge is used it will pull the hardwall off the stop bead, will it not? exsposing it.If this is correct to leave the stop bead in and exsposed will it not crack when the finish coat is applied?

by **kbrownie** » Thu Sep 11, 2008 7:07 pm

Don't quite understand problem, what sort of wall and length is it, if you apply battens instead they can be removed.
KB

by **lanky** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:26 pm

hi, the wall is 30ft long. do you recommend stop beads or batens, if batens what type and size and how do you fix them to the wall?

by **kbrownie** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:26 pm

Hi, i'd fix wooden ones.
You have a 30 foot wall so space them out every five foot so you will have six bays, undercoat/browning every other bay leaving an empty bay in between then when they have cured remove battens and use dry bays as a guide for applying browning in empty bays.
Have I explained that okay.
You can space them out a bit more if you desire to create 5 bays up to you!
Good luck
KB

by **lanky** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 6:39 am

thanx, i understand that bit fine, but how thick should the batens be and should they be plained or rough sawn, also how do you aproach an external corner?

by **kbrownie** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:07 am

Hi again,
Battens about 10mm thick, don't need to be plained but straight and true, they can be packed out to give you a level surface if working on uneven walls. External edges, if at right angles, a angle bead should be fitted or if it,s the end of the run, a stop bead. I fit this a little proud of the 10mm battens to accomadate the application of the finsh so your final coat will trowel level to the nose/edge of bead.
Hope this has helped
KB