Triiso Super 10

[Bustle]

I am installing Triiso Super 10 foil to insulate the pitched & double height roof of my my byre conversion. However the manfacturers instructions refer to adding additional foam board insulation to the flat (horizontal) part of the roof to comply with buiding regs. My architect says that the foil is fine on its own. Can you advise on what I should do? I am keen to ensure a high level of ninsulation to improve energy efficiency.

[thedoctor]

Your architect has access to the insulation qualities of the roof construction you already have and if he says it complys to the regs then it probably does. If you want more then there is nothing to stop you putting it in.

[MDDA]

Be careful, the manufacturers lit says that it will achieve 0.2W/msq K.

This is fine for sloping soffits, but with a flat soffit the regs ask for elemental level of 0.16W/m sq K. which means you will need additional insulation.

However the insulation value of the whole property is taken into account, walls, floors, windows and roof.

Your architect could have upgraded other areas of the build to compensate, so be guided by him.

Also if the project is under NHBC they might not except Triso-Super 10.
Not sure about Zurich.

I use this product on alot of my refub projects, its great, 30mm thick rather than 160mm+ makes a big difference in construction terms, particuarly if you want to expose the beams.

[roselath]

great product but not all local authorities allow it. For me in Cornwall they won't let you use it- if anybody knows different please advise as I would love to use it

[ycooke]

Hello

does anyone know if Super 10 would be suitable for insulating a loft at the floor level in the loft between the ceiling joists, rather than in the roof pitch itself. We want to prevent the heat escaping into the loft and as the 1st floor ceiling timbers are only 100mm and the loft is boarded we wondered if Super 10 between the joists would be effective at all.

Also, is there any merit in laying 2 layers of Super 10?

thanks for your time

yvonne

[TheDoctor5]

Last year 64% of the questions asked in our forum were answered within our DIY project pages at www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects.htm The project pages are now separated alphabetically and your answers are accompanied by diagrams and the ability to see, and buy, the tools and/or required to complete your project. Use our search box to look for your answer and save a great deal of time and money!

[eljaybee]

I would never use a multi-foil product such as Tri-iso Super 10 because it DOES NOT do "what it says on the tin"

The manufacturers claim that it will achieve a good U-value but the companies that have actually tested their product correctly now find that you are required to install approx 75mm of a polyurethane insulation between the rafters before covering with the multi-foil!!! Then with all the cross batterning that you are suppose to do before you plastyerboard - you may as well underboard the rafters with a polyurethane board and plaster which can be fixed straight through to the rafters without the battens.

Ycooke - I don't think that any of the products have been tested or certified for use at ceiling level and there are no merits of laying 2 layers - infact if done this could cause more of a problem as you don't know were the dew point will occur.

[D-Mac]

I used Tri Iso Super 9 (the previous version to the Super 10) in the restoration of my medieval house. It was the only product that I could find that would enable me to insulate the pitched roof and allow the rafters to be exposed. Having been working in the property for quite some time before the insulation work was done, I could sense an immediate and fantastic difference between how quickly the heat was being lost before and how well the heat was being retained afterwards within the upper floor rooms. And this was without any insulation to the solid brick walls at all!

Personally I think this product is fantastic. Especially as the idea behind it is not to store heat like conventional insulation (which obviously requires an amount of heat to be used in creating this 'cushion' around the house), but to reflect the heat back into the rooms where it is needed. I can't understand why some Building Control Officers will not accept it and others will. My property alone is proof that it works.