When to fit a new kitchen floor - before or after units

Should I fit floor before or after kitchen

Total votes : 10

Postby 7487rob » Thu Mar 22, 2007 3:32 pm

We are having an kitchen extension built, so I have a complete blank canvas to work with. We are having a new kitchen fitted in early May, but I want to know whether I should fit a new floor (ceramic tiles) before the kitchen is fitted or after. I am receiving conflicting advice from the kitchen fitters and our builders.
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Postby thedoctor » Thu Mar 22, 2007 10:15 pm

The extra money you spend in "hidden" tiles is far outweighed by the time you will save cutting up to and around the units if you install them first.
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Postby brillo337 » Sat Apr 07, 2007 9:49 am

Whilst I can appreciate the doctors point, I always fit the units first, unless you are using freestanding appliances.These will need to be pulled in and out for servicing and will slide more easily on a level smooth surface, plus the floor may just be visible down the side gaps.When fitting integrated appliances however, I tend to install them on a base of moisture resistant mdf built-up to the same finished level as the floor, or slightly higher.This again makes withdrawal easier. Hope this helps. :)
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Postby Mr T » Fri Apr 13, 2007 3:06 pm

I am in a similar position with a blank canvas. My builder advises me to fit units the have floating floor around them, and under the free standing washing machine, larder fridge and range. My concern is that in the event of a water splill(yes I am paranoid :( ), the water will get under the floor causing far more issues. I intend to advise a complete wall to wall floor with units on top. What do you think. :?:
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Postby redbumperman » Fri Apr 13, 2007 10:30 pm

It's not paranoia, Mr T.
Leaking washing machines are not uncommon and can cause no end of damage. I covered my floor with tiles right up to the walls partly for this reason, having just suffered a leak that went undetected for a long time. The advantages mentioned by others are important too, as is the fact that it's easier to see, clean and check wiring and plumbing. It also means you can alter the layout of units later.
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Postby brillo337 » Sat Apr 14, 2007 5:19 am

I conceed on the leaking washing machine/dishwasher issue......but....not everyone has tiles anyway.Some of my clients have paid up to £80.00 per square metre for solid wood or amtico. That's a lot of money to spend on the areas under base cabinets and integrated appliances.
Perhaps we should devise some kind of tray to sit the appliances on...this wouldn't help with a major leak, but might save a lot of damage from one of those niggling little weeps.
I'm off to the patent office !! :idea:
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Postby 7487rob » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:48 am

Thanks for all this advice. I decided to go for a hybrid approach. I tiled up to the last whole tile before any walls, which meant that plinths etc sat on them and looked neat, plus it avoided me having to cut tiles to fit around things. Under my larder fridge, cooker and dishwasher I tiled to the wall to help with pulling them out etc. The adhesive I used is waterproof, so IF the dishwashwer leaks, hopefully not much damage will be caused.
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Postby palealien » Fri May 11, 2007 5:42 pm

Just checking around for opinions, I am in a similar situation and it's great to have found this discussion. Even though it's technically over, I suppose, just wanted to put my in two bits: I am leaning toward wall-to-wall, I am using vinyl tile and it is inexpensive enough that the cost of extra pieces will be a lot less than the labor of hand-fitting around things. Not to mention easier and faster to install. (Speaking of inventions, I have this great idea for new knee pads..)
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Postby Rachel » Sun May 13, 2007 12:25 pm

You should really lay sheet/vinyl afterwards if there is a pattern that you would like to follow the line of the plinth. All other floors should really be tiled wall to wall. Along with the other reasons the finished floor level should be considered. Most kitchen cupboards are supplied with adjustable feet but if you are moving them up 25mm to allow for the tile/wood then they get to the end of their thread and become unstable. Not a good idea - best to pack them up if you're going down this route.
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