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    Why can't I cut straight?








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    8 posts • Page 1 of 1

    Why can't I cut straight?

    Postby Pauly78 » Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:40 pm

    I'm attempting to cut new skirting boards using a manual mitre saw.

    The angle it cuts at is fine, but I'm having problems with keeping the vertical profile of the wood in a straight line. They seem to curve towards the bottom of the skirt.

    I am new to this, so is it my technique or could it be the saw?

    Any tips would be gratefully received.

    Paul.
    Pauly78
     
    Posts: 2
    Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:27 pm
    Top

    Postby ALDA » Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:11 pm

    P,

    Ensure the saw blade is set square (90 deg) to the mitre base and also that the blade tension is adiquate.

    Sadly, if it is a cheap tool then you will never achieve a satisfactory finish to your joints as the accuracy of the tool will be poor.

    You will probably achieve better results using a mitre block and tennon saw or fine toothed hard point saw.

    ALDA.
    ALDA
     
    Posts: 397
    Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:15 pm
    Top

    Postby toptips » Tue Apr 01, 2008 2:38 pm

    Hi,is it taurus skirting you are using.If so look down the skirting to see if it is cupped,(bowed).this would give a bad joint.
    toptips
     
    Posts: 75
    Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:02 pm
    Top

    Postby Pauly78 » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:30 pm

    Yes it's pine torus skirting from Wickes. They are all slightly bowed, one length in particular was bad that I decided not to use.

    Would this affect the vertical cut though?

    It is a cheap tool, the cheapest one that B&Q had. I'll give a mitre base a go.

    Paul.
    Pauly78
     
    Posts: 2
    Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:27 pm
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    Postby chris_on_tour2002 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 2:31 pm

    why not buy yourself a chop saw? (electric mitre saw) you can pick up a reasonably cheap one, it will be more accurate than a manual mitre saw. i think i know the one you are using, i bought one from b&q and took it back and upgraded to electric. it cost 80 quid but it worked fine. as it will do nice square cuts (if you use it properly!) you will know whether it was the mitre saw or cupping of the wood that was the problem. and yes, cupped wood can throw out the joints and make them curve.
    chris_on_tour2002
     
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    Postby stevenc1603 » Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:23 pm

    I had the same problem. I bought a cheap (£20) mitre saw from Homebase and none of the joints I did were even close to good enough.

    Bought a cheap electric mitre saw for about £40 and its so much better, if not a little on the noisy side.
    stevenc1603
     
    Posts: 191
    Joined: Tue May 08, 2007 11:59 am
    Top

    Postby Fishie42 » Fri Apr 11, 2008 2:45 pm

    I brought this recently,

    .screwfix/98832/Power-Tools/Compound-Mitre-Saws/Titan-8-Sliding-Mitre-Saw-With-Laser-230V

    Screwfix brand Compound Mitre saw, its still in thier sale at under £60. I'm well pleased with it. Not only can you not see the joint in my architraving its also so much quicker!

    I have all the architraving to do round my new windows (14 of them) skirting in most rooms etc, definitely worth the investment!

    Lucy
    Fishie42
     
    Posts: 14
    Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:38 am
    Top

    Postby rosebery » Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:09 pm

    You shouldn't mitre skirting boards - you will get a much better result if you scribe them.

    Skirting from the sheds may be cheaper than from a proper timber merchant but it's generally carp. I'd always recommend going to a timber merchant.

    Cheers
    rosebery
     
    Posts: 2022
    Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:55 pm
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    Post a reply

    8 posts • Page 1 of 1

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