Why can't I cut straight?
Kitchens, doors, rails, stud, tables, chairs, stair cases, garden furniture etc... Find answers and ask questions here!

8 posts   •   Page 1 of 1
Pauly78
Labourer
Labourer
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:27 pm

Why can't I cut straight?

Post by Pauly78 » Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:40 pm

I'm attempting to cut new skirting boards using a manual mitre saw.

The angle it cuts at is fine, but I'm having problems with keeping the vertical profile of the wood in a straight line. They seem to curve towards the bottom of the skirt.

I am new to this, so is it my technique or could it be the saw?

Any tips would be gratefully received.

Paul.

ALDA
Foreman
Foreman
Posts: 397
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:15 pm

Post by ALDA » Mon Mar 31, 2008 9:11 pm

P,

Ensure the saw blade is set square (90 deg) to the mitre base and also that the blade tension is adiquate.

Sadly, if it is a cheap tool then you will never achieve a satisfactory finish to your joints as the accuracy of the tool will be poor.

You will probably achieve better results using a mitre block and tennon saw or fine toothed hard point saw.

ALDA.

toptips
Ganger
Ganger
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:02 pm

Post by toptips » Tue Apr 01, 2008 2:38 pm

Hi,is it taurus skirting you are using.If so look down the skirting to see if it is cupped,(bowed).this would give a bad joint.

Pauly78
Labourer
Labourer
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:27 pm

Post by Pauly78 » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:30 pm

Yes it's pine torus skirting from Wickes. They are all slightly bowed, one length in particular was bad that I decided not to use.

Would this affect the vertical cut though?

It is a cheap tool, the cheapest one that B&Q had. I'll give a mitre base a go.

Paul.

chris_on_tour2002
Project Manager
Project Manager
Posts: 1024
Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2007 9:14 pm

Post by chris_on_tour2002 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 2:31 pm

why not buy yourself a chop saw? (electric mitre saw) you can pick up a reasonably cheap one, it will be more accurate than a manual mitre saw. i think i know the one you are using, i bought one from b&q and took it back and upgraded to electric. it cost 80 quid but it worked fine. as it will do nice square cuts (if you use it properly!) you will know whether it was the mitre saw or cupping of the wood that was the problem. and yes, cupped wood can throw out the joints and make them curve.

stevenc1603
Ganger
Ganger
Posts: 199
Joined: Tue May 08, 2007 11:59 am

Post by stevenc1603 » Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:23 pm

I had the same problem. I bought a cheap (£20) mitre saw from Homebase and none of the joints I did were even close to good enough.

Bought a cheap electric mitre saw for about £40 and its so much better, if not a little on the noisy side.

Fishie42
Apprentice
Apprentice
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Dec 10, 2007 9:38 am

Post by Fishie42 » Fri Apr 11, 2008 2:45 pm

I brought this recently,

.screwfix/98832/Power-Tools/Compound-Mitre-Saws/Titan-8-Sliding-Mitre-Saw-With-Laser-230V

Screwfix brand Compound Mitre saw, its still in thier sale at under £60. I'm well pleased with it. Not only can you not see the joint in my architraving its also so much quicker!

I have all the architraving to do round my new windows (14 of them) skirting in most rooms etc, definitely worth the investment!

Lucy

rosebery
Project Manager
Project Manager
Posts: 2021
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:55 pm

Post by rosebery » Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:09 pm

You shouldn't mitre skirting boards - you will get a much better result if you scribe them.

Skirting from the sheds may be cheaper than from a proper timber merchant but it's generally carp. I'd always recommend going to a timber merchant.

Cheers

8 posts   •   Page 1 of 1
It is currently Tue Apr 02, 2024 4:59 pm