WELCOME TO OUR Basic Decking PROJECT
This project is presented by Property Repair Systems
Summary: Basic decking construction. How to build your deck
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Basic Decking
If you need help with any type of Decking Repair or Coating problem Property Repair Systems will be pleased to give you completely free, no obligation advice on 01626 331351. The information you need may be in the Project below, but if not call them for expert, unbiased assistance with Decking Treatment products.
Basic Decking - Designing and Building Your Decking
Decking has risen dramatically in popularity due (we believe) to a large extent, to its versatility. A raised deck does not create half as many problems, or half as much work, as a raised patio. Decks can curve with ease, and blend in beautifully with other wooden features in the garden such as trees and fences.
Decking is still however, carpentry and some skill is required to get it right!
This project deals with a straight forward raised deck. It looks from the images as if its raised a lot but the same principle applies even if its only raised a few inches. If you have a patio you wish to turn into a deck, the frame shown below can simply be built directly onto the patio. In this situation it’s a good idea to lay the frame in line with the fall of the Patio so water cannot lay up against the timbers.
It is vital you draw out your decking plan first. This will enable you to work out exactly where you need to put posts for support and how much timber you need. The bigger the timber, the greater the distance between the posts you can allow. Using frame and joist timbers of 225 x 50mm there should be no more than 2m between posts holding up the frame but 4m can be allowed between ends of the frame providing the joists are no more than 450mm apart. This means that using 225 x 50mm timbers a frame 4m x 4m can be built (12ft x 12ft) using 8 posts. We recommend using 100mm square posts. The diagram above shows a deck 4m long by 1.8m wide (not to scale).
The easiest way to work out the exact position for posts is to build the frame first. This can be laid on the ground and the post positions marked.
The posts are positioned in the ground just as shown in our concreting fence posts project. This shows, once again, that when the basic principles of many “key” jobs are mastered, DIY and building (apart from the obvious skills involved in the trades) common sense can tell you how to do a job. It will certainly not give you the skills to do it, they only come with practice!
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The timbers forming the deck are proprietary timbers with grooves cut into them. These grooves should always be laid to a slight fall to help water run off the deck. All decking frames and timbers should be screwed rather than nailed. Timber moves a great deal with expansion and contraction and this movement can work nails loose in no time. All timber used should be treated with a timber preservative including the bare ends left when you make a cut. All cut timbers should be taken to the tip NOT BURNED. Timber which has been treated with preservative can split and spit in a fire, throwing ashes and splinters many feet.
Spend some time thinking about where to site your deck. If you plan it as a shaded area, remember this may lead to damp in the timbers and the growth of lichen and algae if it will not see any sunshine for months on end.
Decks over 300mm from the ground may require a handrail. The posts for the rail can be bolted to the side of the frame.
Very large decks and decks raised more than 600mm may need planning permission as they may affect your neighbours. Check the situation with the Building Control Department of your local Council.
Take care when digging holes for posts as you may be near drains etc in your garden.
There is no reason why the decking timbers cannot overshoot the frame by a sensible amount. This amount you can work out for yourselves by standing on the boards. Using this feature enables you to cut the decking boards to a shape which blends into your garden and if you plan this shape first, you can make your frame to suit.
The final image shows a deck we built to go out a little way over a garden pond. The white lines represent the approximate position of the frame. The deck timbers were allowed to extend beyond the deck by about 400mm allowing plenty of room for a curve to be cut.
Basic Decking – Looking After Your Decking
Decking needs the following maintenance;
- Check regularly for splinters, protruding nails, rot and mould. Do not allow the wood to become black or green before treating – the moulds become embedded in the wood fibres and not even pressure washing will remove them.
- Treat the deck in Spring and Autumn with two coats of Boracol 10RH – this will prevent moulds and fungi from colonising the wood and protect against insect attack.
- Check exposed end grain and cuts, ground contact timbers and water traps for signs of rot. Treat vulnerable areas with Boron Ultra Gel.
- To maintain colour apply Decking Oil, but only after full cleaning and treatment with Boracol 10RH.
DECKING AND WOODEN DECK FURNITURE - WHAT DO YOU WANT IT TO LOOK LIKE?
For maintenance free deck, Patio and poolside furniture click – cane-line
Decking has a particular problem with regards to appearance: like patios and paths it gets dirty, but being made of timber it can also oxidise (turning grey) and rot. The way that decking reacts to sunlight and rain depends upon the timber that it is made of, the preservative treatment used and the way it is fixed together;
- Softwoods – lightweight, renewable resource, cheaper than hardwoods, but less durable. Either buy pre-treated (usually green in colour) or treat the timber yourself (See boron.org.uk ). Softwood will turn grey, unless oiled very regularly.
- Hardwoods – heavier, more expensive, not so ‘green’, but much more durable. Not susceptible to rot or insect attack, if of good quality. Don’t require preservative treatment for rot, but will still go grey if not oiled regularly.
- All wood types - need to treat in Spring and Autumn with Boracol 10RH to suppress growth of moulds and fungi. If the structural supports, posts, handrails etc. are also made of softwood don’t forget to treat with Boron Gel and drill and insert Boron Rods where in ground contact or vulnerable to rainwater pooling.
- Surface Finish - consider smooth or grooved finishes. Grooved finishes are more slip resistant when wet, but harder on bare feet.
- Fixings – nails or screws, joints and plates can all act as moisture traps and damage the timber, allowing rots and insects to gain a foothold. Careful assembly and design can eliminate many of these problems, but otherwise treatment with Boron-based preservatives is essential, particularly with softwoods.
If you need help with any type of Decking Repair or maintenance problem Property Repair Systems will be pleased to give you completely free, no obligation advice on 01626 331351
Take a look at our video section on "useing a table saw" to how to use this useful woodworking machine.
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