This project is presented by www.u-fit.co.uk
Summary: Double Glazed windows, double glazed doors, sealed units. Doors & windows in upvc. Fitting upvc windows.
Double-glazing generally comes in three parts, the frames, the cill and the glass. When you order, they will arrive separately with the beads in the frame so you can pretty much see how to join one to the other. Obviously check you have measured for your new windows correctly and if you need help click on the image (right) below. Remove your existing windows carefully. The less mess you make of the walls the less work you will have to do later on. Check you have not damaged any vertical damp proof courses or that they have not pulled out with the old frame. If they have, slide them, or new lengths, back into position. Water must not be able to pass from the outside part of your wall, through the brickwork etc. to the inside. (See our cavities project)

Frame and Beads

Cill and End Caps

Trickle vent (see condensation project)
Sealed units (the glass) are two panes of glass kept apart by a coloured spacer bar (mostly silver or brown). This is filled with silica crystals. These crystals soak up the moisture to keep the air gap between the panes clear. You should be given a 10-year guarantee on these units... The glass will be cut to fit the frame you order so you only have to worry about getting the right size frame. The glass will also be cut to allow room for the heads of the frame fixing screws at the side of it. When you insert the glass you will need to space it out so the borders are equidistant in the frame. In the case of a "barred" sealed unit, as shown here, you will need to make sure the glazing bars look absolutely horizontal and vertical. This can also be done using the spacers. The frame will come separately to the cill. The cill will probably have to be cut to length on site as they normally give you a little extra. There are end caps, which need to be glued on to the ends of the cill with a special PVC superglue, you can ask for from the supplier.
The cill sits on the top of the outside skin of wall, on a mastic, or sand and cement bed. A bead of silicone is applied to the top of the cill and the frame then sits on that. The back edge of the cill will have a little upstand against which the window will butt and this is where you put the silicone. Do not seal the gap, which will be between the bottom front edge of the window frame, and the top of the cill. There are drainage holes in the bottom of the frame and any water that does get into the frame can run out of these holes and run off the cill.

Bottom of frame with cill
Different thickness spacers
The beads, if installed when you take delivery of the frame, can be removed using a sharp scraper or chisel, this will give you a clear view of the rebates that will receive the glass.
This is where you will drill any fixing holes...Put the frame in and square it up within the opening using the plastic spacers you can ask for with the windows, choose a solid area of wall and drill through the frame and wall. Countersink the fixing hole gently, the pvc section here is not very thick and you just want to be able to lose some of the heel of the fixing. Insert the correct length "frame fix" screws, which come complete with plug. (Take the screw from the plug and push the plug in first, (you may have to give the plug some help to get it through the frame and firmly into the hole in the wall) then push the screw in as far as you can by hand, then tap it in a bit further with a hammer and finish it off with the battery screwdriver) Try and get your fixings either near the spacers you have used, or in positions where the frame is touching the reveal. This will make sure you do not bow the frame when you tighten up. With opening windows the fixing goes in the rebate that does not foul the closing of the window.

Click here for an installation guide from U-fit.co.uk
Much more construction information is available in our bookstore. All the tools and fittings you need in the toolstore.
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