by ericmark »
Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:57 pm
As said there is some confusion with names, I was taught a driver controls current but many manufacturers call the constant voltage power supply a driver, so with extra low voltage LED units you have 4 common ways to power them.
1) Constant voltage DC the coils of LED's normally use this.
2) Constant voltage AC the little spot lights normally use this often marked 50 Hz.
3) Constant current DC this is a true driver.
4) Range of voltage DC mainly designed for vehicles, often with a range 10 - 30 volt designed to run from a battery which when on/off charge can have a voltage range.
As to IP rating IP68 is really a bit OTT, that is for under water, but as to how water proof depends on how much vapour comes off the water, with old lights the heat in the lamp kept it dry inside, and even LED lights produce some heat, the main problem is when they are switched off, as they cool they can suck in water, so if there is air space often better if there is a simple hole in the bottom so water can drain out again, so outside lights are often only IP54 idea is water can drain out, but IP67 will allow immersion up to 150 mm but personally unless dripping in water with a 12 volt supply I would not really worry about the IP rating, if using 230 volt in the hood maybe, but 12 volt unlikely to cause a problem, and if the lights cost £5 against £60 then if it does fail simply replace it.
I expect a cheap role of stick on LED lighting as long as the ends are outside the hood would work well. As to UV and fish that is not something I know about, the old fluorescent had UV output and it seemed OK, so would not think there is a problem.
