Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice if possible please. I'm looking to install the Drayton Wiser Smart Thermostat in my house. I currently have 2x heating zones one downstairs and one upstairs. Boiler is in the garage and a water tank upstairs. I understand I will have to swap my downstairs thermostat and controller (Danfoss TP9000) to the Drayton Wiser Heat Hub. This is where I become a little confused as the TP9000 does not have a standard backplate therefore not a straightforward swap for the Drayton Wiser Heat Hub. Has anybody got experience doing this and is fairly simple? Also would I do with the two wires that run to the TP5000 that controls the upstairs heating?
Although there is a standard back plate, there are three ways it can be wired, single, twin, and triple zones all use same back plate, and with the Drayton Wiser the OpenTherm option is an add on. [attachment=1]triple zones.jpg[/attachment] [attachment=0]temp2.jpg[/attachment] So question one has to be is the boiler opentherm enabled?
When I came to do the central heating in this house, it soon became clear it had never worked automatic, plug and socket to power pump for main house etc. To want change the system one assumes old system does not work?
I found my system had two pumps, and was a C Plan, and before you can start you need to work out what you have, there is no one method suits all, I had to add motorised valves to stop back feed. Plus two relays. And I have no thermostat on the DHW, it is pure thermo syphon.
OK my two zones are really two zones, one is main house, the other is the flat under the house, flat hardly used, so is normally turned off, and the main house has 9 electronic TRV heads so we can control each room independent.
The Drayton Wiser also has some rather good electronic TRV heads, and if using the heads, the question is do you really want two zones?
I am sure it is, however it is not as easy as saying put red wire here. I spent ages working out how to wire my Nest Gen 3 and ended up with this [attachment=0]C_Plan_My_HouseD-relay.jpg[/attachment] clearly yours will not be the same, but it took some time and effort to work out what was required.
So I would look at eQ-3 and Terrier i30 TRV heads, the eQ-3 seems to have shot up in price since brexit, I got blue tooth version for £15 each and seen non blue tooth at less than £10 each, think the Terrier i30 is British so now likely cheaper that German eQ-3.
Stand alone TRV heads can't make heating switch on, so clearly linked units to the wall thermostat are better, however careful setting can get around the problem of not being linked.
The wall thermostat traditionally is placed in a room kept cool, on ground floor, with no alternative heating, and no outside doors, however rarely does such a room exist, but the basic idea is the TRV's control the room temperatures but the wall thermostat turns of the whole of heating when warm weather arrives.
So if the TRV is set a little lower than the wall thermostat this will normally work, in my case the TRV is set around 2 degs lower than wall thermostat, yes it takes some trial and error setting it all up, but using the lock shield valve and getting to 20 degs drop across the radiator and it can work very well.
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