DIY Doctor

Fitting new closed-coupled toilet - a few questions.

Postby nitro23456 » Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:40 pm


Fitting my new (armitage shanks sandringham) close coupled toilet in the morning.

My old close coupled has an overflow but the sandringham does not - is this normal nowadays? and if so what is the best way to fill my old overflow hole through the block and brick to the outside?

Other question is, where the cistern fits to the pan, I have the back nut to the flush mechanism only as tight as I can get it with my hands - I dont have a spanner big enough. I am pretty strong (ha ha) but will this suffice? the back nut then sits on a sponge washer onto the pan...... basically should this be tighter than this (flush mechanism in cistern - washer inside cistern - to metal plate on bottom of cistern holding bolts to pan - back nut a good hand tight - sponge washer to cistern - wing nuts onto pan)

any advice welcome!!
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Simply Build It

Postby bonzo » Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:20 pm


You're going to want to get a pair of waterpump pliers on the backnut. You will probably get another couple of good turns on it. It will very likely leak how it is.

As far as the overflow is concerned. Yes it is normal to not have an external overflow. I think they've pretty much done away with that method now. The toilet you have will probably overflow into the pan itself. So if you notice the toilet slowly flushing at all times, it is overflowing and something is wrong.

I would use sand and cement to fill the hole. Perhaps use a filler of some sort to create a smooth finish on the internal wall.
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Postby chris_on_tour2002 » Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:32 pm

expanding foam will fill the hole easily. the benefits are that it will completely fill the hole and insulate so no draughts. when cured just cut it back a bit, render/sand and cement outside, and plaster/filler inside.
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