Fused Spur Help and Advice - Need to Move Socket to Fit Fridge! Ask questions and find answers to many subjects relating to electrics and electrical work

[Wayne86]

Hi guys,

Looking for some advice on fused spurs.

I'm fitting a new kitchen just now, the carcas for my fridge/freezer isn't as deep as my old one. My problem is that my fridge now doesnt go all the way back into the carcas as it hits the plug socket at the back. I've removed the front of the socket and found that it is part of the ringmain and has 1 fused spur which is used for the washing machine. Basically i need to move the thing out of the way so the fridge can fit properly in the carcas. My idea was to remove the socket and add a junction box in its place, I would then run a cable up above the carcas and add a fused spur for the fridge freezer. That would then leave me with a JB on the ring and 2 fused spurs from it, one for the fridge/freezer and one for the washing machine. I understand that normally you can only take one spur from a socket on the ring, but if i'm removing the socket is it ok to have 2?
Any advice would be a great help!
Cheers
Wayne

[ericmark]

To my mind the main problem with two spurs from same point on the ring is 4 wires in a terminal will often result in one not being tight enough and a bad connection and heat resulting.

The other is if close to the consumer unit too much current can end up being taken from one leg of the ring.

Using a twin (not double) back box you can place two FCU's next to each other so the latter is not a valid reason.

So looking at former much would depend on how you make your junction into the ring. Using a double cooker connection unit designed to take a hob and a oven would likely give you multi-connections and although not strictly correct would be unlikely to cause a problem.

The other idea is to feed one FCU from the other so total draw limited to 13A.

If an EICR is done then likely they will list using a double cooker connection unit to take two spurs as a fault where as one FCU feeding another would not be.

But using a cooker connection unit must be far better than using chock block and blanking plate.

At the end of the day you have to make your mind up. This page http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/102 ... ate-prw217 has a good picture as you can see no more than two wires in any terminal so should be OK even if strictly does not comply.