DIY Doctor

Induction hob/45A MCB in consumer unit/Oven

Postby PaddyLondon » Fri Dec 18, 2020 4:53 pm

I'm trying to make a decision and figure out how much hassle it will be to switch from a gas hob to an induction hob, specifically the electrical work required and what I might need an electrician to do.

My consumer units (I have two) do not appear to have spare slots for a new spur/MCB.

I have a 45A MCB in one of the CUs that feeds a spur to a single13A switched socket and cooker switch oven spur from an oven switch and an integrated 13A socket.

Could an electrician run an additional cable to from the 45A MCB in the CU to the hob for a compliant installation (ie that MCB would support two spurs)? The cable route is easy, so it would be quite handy if it is possible.
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Postby ericmark » Sat Dec 19, 2020 12:06 am

45 amp in the main needs 10 mm² and it seems unlikely cable that size has been used, also you likely need RCD protection, etc.

So it is hard to say what will be required, but there are a whole range of induction hobs and some can be run from a 13 amp supply.

I love my induction hob, although there are some draw backs, there is a limit to how much you can tilt the pan without the hob auto switching off, and the pan base needs to be magnetic, but in general they are faster to gas, and safer than gas.

I bought a 2 kW induction from Lidi for camping, my daughter in law has it now it is her only hob, until my son finishes the kitchen.

Ours are up to 3.7 kW on boost, which is never used at that power, other than boiling water it would just burn the food. So on the 1.2 kW plate rarely use it at over 7 of the 10 power settings, so in general you will use around 4 kW average with 4 rings in use, yes in theory mine could used 6.7 kW with two rings, but average even when not designed to 13 or 16 amp is still likely 16 amp, so likely no problem with a 20 amp supply, my stand alone can use 56 amp, but it is on a 32 amp MCB and it has never tripped it.

I would go for one with knobs on if you can, it reacts so fast, like gas when milk starts to boil over you simply turn off heat, no need to lift the pan, however using touch controls slows down how fast you can turn it off. So your forced to lift pan, never worked out why they fit touch controls as food does not bake on so cleaning is easy anyway.

Main gain is summer, it does not heat the kitchen as much, so better for the cook.
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Postby PaddyLondon » Sat Dec 19, 2020 1:06 am

Thanks Eric, very helpful. I'll need to check the cable - It's nearly 30 years since I ran it - but I a pretty sure I used a very conservative, safe choice of cable - I remember wanting to ensure it was heat resistant. It won't be ordinary ring main twin and earth. Regards David
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