DIY Doctor


Postby admur » Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:12 pm

Hi All,

Tried searching but struggling to get info I am looking for!

We are having a new kitchen fitted which is a completely different layout to the existing one - as such we effectively need a rewire done.

Kitchen will have freestanding Fridge Freezer, Dishwasher, Washing Machine & Tumbledrier. We will also have a standard 90cm dual fuel Range Cooker, with a 90cm extractor above.

In addition to this, there will be 4 double sockets and the lighting will be 9 ceiling spot lights & 6 cupboard lights.

The kitchen sits in an extension, which has it's own consumer unit. This is the old style which takes fuse wire :shock:

1) Would the Spark need to change this to a new CSU with MCB's?

2) As the appliances are free-stading, do they need their own MCB and isolated switch, or can they just sit on the main 13a MCB with the sockets below the counter-top?

3) I assume the cooker needs it's own isolation switch & MCB - what current would this usually be?

4) Does the cooker hood need to be wired on the main circuit or the lighting circuit and does it needs it's own isolation switch?

5) For the lighting, we are fitting spots, are the best kind the ones that are on a ring or with their own transformers?

6) Finally the golden question - what price should I expect to pay a Spark, excluding materials for this work, assuming the room is completely gutted and ready to be tracked?

I know this is a super long post, but any feedback is greatly appreciated!

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Simply Build It

Postby ericmark » Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:53 pm

1) The work comes under Part P and the fees paid to the Council Building control vary also what they will allow you to do also varies in the main it’s a lot of hassle with little gain and I would think your better getting a spark.
2) Free standing appliances are required to have any overload devices under 16 amp built in as must be EEC compliant not just UK. So they will not require an MCB but one would use 13 amp fuse or less according to flex size. One would normally fit grid switches so they can be isolated for de-frost etc.
3) The cooker, if free standing, will normally be supplied with a 32 to 45 amp supply. If built in then you may need to match the MCB to manufactures recommendations and hob and oven may need their own supplies.
4) It would be normal as with a cooker to provide a switch which could still be reached to isolate in the case of fire. And normally supplied from the ring main.
5) Lighting is changing so rapid it is hard to keep up. I would look for a type which would allow the use of energy saving bulbs as tungsten are to be phased out. The cold cathode and LED bulbs tend to be longer than the tungsten quartz halogen types so some fitting will not accommodate the extra length. Transforms as such are not used much anymore where SELV types are used inverters which better control the voltage and therefore the bulbs last longer are now the norm but each time I look there is something new.
6) Not a clue on price area and what you want the electrician to do will make it vary so much.
What I would consider is what it is worth doing with DIY the Part P often charges one fee and if you are doing even some of the work your self then often an electrician is unable to sign the installation certificate under the self cert scheme so make sure you know exactly who is doing what before you start it is no good at the end of the job asking for an installation certificate only to find he can’t sign it and having to pay extra for building control to do it after work has started. It is your responsibility. I would follow links in projects both for Part P and 17th Edition and at least scan quickly through it before you buy anything which will not comply with either of the rules. Be very careful with consumer units there are so many types now easy to make a mistake.

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