Worktop mitres

by **billobach181** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:51 am

Once the joint has been cut do I use Silicone as a jointing glue or is the other gloues I should use?
Regatss
Bill

by **will_buckley** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:00 pm

you fix it with work top clamps underneath and biscuits, the silicone is also a fix but is used more to prevent water from getting in the gap to the ends of the worktop.

by **billobach181** » Wed Jul 11, 2007 8:45 am

Many thans.
Bill

by **LEO292** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:22 pm

I dont use biscuits on my worktops because you cant lift or drop the worktop when its glued together. Sometimes a final play with the scribe is needed to get them perfectly flush. The bolts are quite enough to hold them together while the silicone(clear, low modulos) cures. Dont screw the worktop down while its still wet untill the next day or the scribe might pull down too! Its happened to me!! as for the colour fill, try to keep away from this unless youve got scratches. Its too expensive and too messy. Hope this helps. Leo

by **mrfixit** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 4:56 pm

I always treat any open edges of worktop, around the cut out for the sink easpecially, with a couple of coats of PVA sealer to protect it from any water damage, I then use any proprietary brand of wood glue to fix the two pieces together. The use of the clamps set into the underside of the worktop is in my mind essential but the use of biscuits less so.

by **susan madley** » Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:17 am

Thanks very much - and fingers crossed!!

by **tazgully** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:50 pm

Hi,
I always use a waterproof wood glue as I am starting to tighten up the clamps underneath. Also I apply Colorfill to the top of the joint which when clamped up also forms a good waterproof seal. You can buy Colorfill in colours to match the worktop and it helps to disguise the join. Excess can be removed with Colorfill's solvent cleaner.

Steve