Hi all, need some advice on cooker supply. I'm currently preparing to fit new kitchen, the existing cooker is being kept and remaining in same place but CCU is directly above cooker at moment! Planning moving this to either side for obvious reasons, however wires too short whichever way i want go and it's also 10mm2! Finding this very difficult to work with in limited space, It's only about five metres from CU supplying a small basic oven hob combined, was planning replacing it from CU with 6mm but needless to say it'll involve a lot more work than first thought. Any suggestions? Was thinking of using a junction box to lenghthen it and also maybe reduce it to 6mm before CCU, will be inside an uninsulated stud wall and will leave access hatch in back of wall unit?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
If you are moving the cu you really need to contact a qualified electrician, it is unwise not to. The cooker cables will be rate for the appliance and the device protecting this circuit. Calculation need to be made or you could have a fire.
HI, first, obligatory warning that any electrical work in kitchen is 'controlled service' part-p notifiable see projects section.
As you can't guarentee 50mm from surface behind stud work would have to be on RCD. If possible locate cable at top of top cupboard level join in box with coverplate then run in 6mm horizontally until above new Cooker Control Unit position then vertically down to new CCU, doing it this way keeps cable in 'safe zones' also.
Ensure supply is fused at 32A to suit 6mm rating in stud wall of 35A max,
think/hope that covers question,
Hi sparx/kb, thanks for advice.
Unfortunately living in a remote area and nearest sparky is very min 2 hours drive away, the wiring in house dates back to orignal, 1930's to more recent various extensions, intending a complete rewire in near future so this will just be a temp solution, and will have it checked if anyone is working in area. The supply comes from a 30A fuse, old wylex fuse box, not sure why it's been done with 10mm, possibly for a previous appliance but must have been a heck of a cooker to need that. Box and blank idea is far simpler, thanks Sparx, Found supply in wall and sussed the right one out ( it was taped up with 2 other 10mm, ring main, and another 2.5mm!) Understand you can't really give advice against regulations, so if someone was doing this would they be ok to use a 30A block connector to make new join if the screw heads were sealed and whole connection was insulated before putting blank on?!!
Appreciate that and if you cant really say, I best leave it, who knows maybe tomorrow when i go back to it the wiring fairies will have done it for me. :D
I'm quite confident of my abilities (moreso with running new circuits and fittings) and certainly aware of my limitations, just want to be sure i'm not doing any temp fixes or repairs that are a definate no no, cheers. Currently trying to replace part of lighting circuit with T&E, part of it is old rubber 2 core with porcelain twist on connectors, with class one fittings and faceplates! By eck, they may be old but these connector's dont half take a good grip!! Thinks I'll be looking into rewire sooner than near future....
When making connections between cables the requirements state that all connections should be sound and accessible, if cables are not at least 50mm in to a wall that's both sides of wall. Should be run in permitted areas only or have mechanical protection, plus the addtion of RCD's is now required.
So if you are connecting these cables together, you should have a blanking plate so this terminal can be inspected at a later date for faults.
(don't hide it in the wall).
The circuit should run within the permitted areas, to assure an element of safety. also i'd calculate you cable size to be sure it's right for cooker/breaker
Faults usually occur at the accessories, where cables area connected, not along the cables within the walls and ceilings. Unless hammer, nail, screw or drill have been out to play.
Again be safe, don't forget you may need work to be tested and certificate to prove that.
Hope this has helped, don't think my original answer help any