Garden Electric Sockets

Postby oldspark » Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:22 pm

Please can someone advise me of how I can provide a weather proof socket outlet in the garden for use either on a garden pond pump or lawn mower ect.

I understand that no power socket must no be less than three and a half meters from the pond. Currently the pond pump has a flex with a thirteen amp plug on it and is trailed across the patio to a SRCB oulet in the conservatory (This is a ring mains socket).

I have two options, these are run an armoured cable 2.5mm from the summer house 5Mtrs distance (the summer house is six meters from the house) and change the existing twin Consumer unit to a three and fit appropriate RCDO circuit protection. Alternatively, provide a SCRB weather proof socket ouside the conservatory and run a new flex to the pump. Your comments would be appreciated. Thank you
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Simply Build It

Postby sparx » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:56 pm

Hi, difficult to advise without seeing layout but SWA to a weather proof dble socket would seem to be best option, altho' since you are asking I presume your not 'Part-P' registered so will need to get work certified so why not get registered local leckie to quote for what he thinks is best way,
as all the above work is covered under bldg regs.
regards SPARX
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Postby oldspark » Wed Apr 23, 2008 9:55 pm

Thanks for the info. You are correct, I am not Part P qualified. I did electrical contacting many years ago and would like to do the installation and get suitably approved tester to check work.

\should I decide to provide weatherproof power socket in garden, what is the bet way to fix or locate for attachment. I was considering building a small house-brick square columns say 500mm tall and attching the socket.

any other suggestion please.
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Postby ericmark » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:18 pm

Screwfix > Electrical > Weatherproof will show some sockets you need to decide if you want special plugs or not the Clipsal tend to use special plugs but MK Masterseal range will take normal ones. I found under bird table or seat seemed to blend in better careful on distances I think if you mount a box with lock or screw lid and fit socket for pond inside box so a tool or key is required for access then you may be able to mount closer than 3.5 meters. Mine in inside green house which is next to the pond. Part P I am sure the P stands for Pain in neck has resulted in many problems as building control don't people often don't have electrical training and will do anything to ensure it is done through a registered electrician rather than take the responsibility them selves and although in theory you can do it yourself in practice there is often a fight. Go to links in projects and down load the Part P document. Biggest problem is registered electricians can only sign for complete job as Part P registered and if you do design and installation then ask them to do inspection and testing then they can't use registered status to issue building control certificates so it still has to go through building control so instead of doing a proper job extension leads rule OK. Same happened in New Zealand and it was repealed in the end do to extension lead accidents.

Postby oldspark » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:31 pm

Many many thanks for your reply. Times have moved on since I retired as an electrian.

I will take your advice on suitable power devices and structures/accommodation. It looks like I have to outsource the complete job, what has the world come to when one gets beaten by the system and not the competence or capability of a life times work!!

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Postby ericmark » Fri Apr 25, 2008 10:03 am

There are three stages of work
If you come under the skilled you can do the job by paying fee but councils vary with their fees and I totally agree that where the council charges more to process paperwork than it costs to do the job it is getting silly. And even reading their paperwork and working out what can be done without needing Part P is completely crazy I did a post on it not long ago.
It seems I can change the casing on the consumer unit without Part P and also change the MCB's without Part P but I can't change complete item being an electrician what is the difference in changing the case and changing the whole thing? And anything planned before 2004 when it came in still does not require it so if you had planned fitting your sockets before 2004 you could have fitted them? When I knew it was coming in I made all sorts of plans!
So I can go to my daughters house and repair the shed supply put in by previous owner and thats OK as long as I don't up grade it to latest regulations how does that make sense they can Part P*** *** I will do it according to BS7671:2008 after all the Part P refers to BS7671:2001 which dies on July 1st!

Postby oldspark » Fri Apr 25, 2008 12:48 pm

Hi ericmark,

Once again thanks for providing such a comprehensive response to my initial and subsequent request for DIY Info.

Can you believe that I have found a work around to Part P for completing the Job!!

Whilste walking through B&Q yesterday I noticed they advertise and sell outdoor weather proof kits containing Plug in RCD, weatherproof junction box, 5 or 25 mtrs of 2.5 three core SWA and a waether proof socket switced 13a box. The total costs are 5mtr = £80: 25mtr = £100. Whilste I accept that this solution will require connecting into a plug socket via RCB and plug arrangement it will suffice and certainly provide a better low cost option without the hastle. Natuarlly, if I was part P qualified/registered I would have made a permanant circuit arrangement. However, since it is for my daughter's use, and only used in the Summer this looks a natural solution.

Thank you and best regrds,

Old Spark
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