One out/One in


Postby Rainbow » Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:37 am

Hi i'am a new member to this site so hello to all.

We are considering replacing our central heating boiler(Ariston Euro Combi) with one of the Viessmann range would like it to be a system type not combi,as we would like a power shower i.e feed straight from the boiler.
We have a two bathroom house....8 rooms in total.
What would be the best Viessmann for the job looking at the 200 or maybe the 300.
Our Ariston measurements are (H) 880 (W)450 (D)350 with a top vent,would the Viessmann 300 with a measurement of (H) 850 (W) 450 (D) 380 just slot in? will the old pipe work feeding the Ariston be the same just to re-connect to the Viessmann 300,will the vent pipe be the same dimensions?.
What i'am asking is one straight out and one straight in... without problems
Any advice please

Rainbow
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Postby LES COWIE » Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:22 pm

iTS NEVER `STRAIGHT OUT STRAIGHT IN`, BEST ADVISE IS GET A FEW QUOTES AND ASK THE ENGINEER TO EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENT SYSTEMS TO YOU. AT THIS TIME OF YEAR IT COULD BE A COUPLE OF MONTHS BEFORE YOU GET WORK DONE, DONT BE SHY TO ASK FOR CORGI REGISTRATION
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Postby Rainbow » Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:45 pm

Cheers we will be getting a corgi registered guy in to fit it,but after we have purchases it on line,but there is still a question i would like some answers too.... which one of the Viessmann to purchase?? the 200 or the 300 to do the job

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Postby Perry525 » Tue Dec 25, 2007 3:03 pm

First of all let me say that the Viessmann is a quality product, but....
The 200 will drive you mad as it has only a 11.4 L output, like all of this ilk, when someone in the kitchen, utility room or other bathrooms turn the hot tap on, the water disappears.
The 333 with 86 L hot water storage doesn't do much better.
The best option is the 200 system with an indirect copper cylinder etc; bags of hot water, can be coupled with a power shower etc
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Postby Rainbow » Wed Dec 26, 2007 5:17 pm

[quote="Perry525"]First of all let me say that the Viessmann is a quality product, but....
The 200 will drive you mad as it has only a 11.4 L output, like all of this ilk, when someone in the kitchen, utility room or other bathrooms turn the hot tap on, the water disappears.
The 333 with 86 L hot water storage doesn't do much better.
The best option is the 200 system with an indirect copper cylinder etc; bags of hot water, can be coupled with a power shower etc[/quote]

Thanks for that Perry525.
If i've got this right then this cylinder would have to be fitted some were within the house.
If thats the case then we will be going back to near enough to what we had when we moved in 24 years ago, i.e headtank in the loft and cylinder in a bedroom.
That would be going back in time?
What we would like is a compact system to replace this combi we have now,if that means a better more powerful combi system,thats fine.

What we would like is a compact system wall mounted,that will supply hot water to another part of the house without a big loss in hot water power output.
In the future we would like to replace a electric shower with one of those power showers cubicle type were they have water coming from the top sides fitted radio etc.

Some advice on the best central heating system and best make.

Rainbow
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Postby Perry525 » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:07 pm

Oh dear, I'm not sure anyone could claim to have fitted and used the majority of equipment out there.
So, let me give you my opinion.
The instant hot water heaters are a waste of money, why well they take an enormousness amount of heat to heat up a pathetic amount of water. Economic they are not.
The system heaters that use a stainless steel store are popular with their makers and sellers as they make so much money from them. They give you mains pressure hot water, OK if you live in a hole but, not so good in a lot of areas with low pressure. The tanks need to be large.

I have always preferred the traditional copper tank indirect setup. Fitted with correctly sized tanks and pipes they can deliver masses of water to several rooms at once. Try to avoid flexible couplings as they constrict the flow of water. Use 10mm pipes to hand basins. This system will accept a power shower, it needs its own direct cold feed from the header tank and from the hot, keep in mind the vast amount of water used and that you have to have a water meter fitted.

For the heating, a zoned system using 5 wire motorised valves, these only use power while opening or closing unlike the spring closed ones that use power the whole time they are held open and, therefore tend to burn out. Fit thermostatic valves to all radiators. For the bedrooms and other low temperature zones run correct sized pipes from as close to the boiler as possible to keep the lengths of hot pipe to a minimum. Keep in mind that these areas will be off most of the time, so there is no point in heating yards of pipe to no purpose. Each zone will need its own room thermostat consider using wireless stats one to each zone, as these can be moved into whichever room you are in.(Make sure to turn the radiator stats up when moving in)

Final points, improve the perimeter insulation, especially the upper floor ceilings. 50mm of polystyrene fixed to the upstairs ceilings will make a very large difference to your comfort, far more effective than fibre glass.

From a comfort and cost point try not to let the room temperatures drop more that a couple of degrees as this will cause condensation.
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