I've just bought a new single oven and need to install asap. I won't be getting a hob for a while and will get electrician out when do.
But in meantime I wanted to know if I can connect my new Beko 2.3kw single fan oven to the same terminal outlet box my freestanding all electric cooker was connected to?
I have a terminal outlet box on wall behind cooker and a cooker control unit with socket on the wall above to right.
I've read the exsisting cooker cable but can't quite decipher all so this is everything printed on it = BASEC TO BS6004 6242YH 2x6+2.5mm 097 PX92
At my consumer unit above the cooker switch it reads NB 40
40A TYPE 1
I posted previous question about attaching plug which was kindly answered by SPARX - thanks again! But now having recieved oven and seeing the terminal block on back is same as freestanding cooker I would like if possible just to swap them over. So my question is ..... being that my single oven presumably requires less power than freestanding cooker is it still safe/ok to use same cable and connect to terminal outlet with what I translate is 40A fuse at consumer unit? Can you have too much available power?
you have given good info, cable data says it's a 6mm2 live & neutral with a 2.5mm2 earth core, the H means Harmonised colours EG brown/blue.
Which is correctly backed by a 40Amp BS3871 type 1 mcb.
this is fine to protect the cable but as you say the ovens max load is 2300watts
2300/230Volts = 10Amps max your oven can draw under normal use.
So you could connect it directly in and all will be well unless the oven develops a fault, in which case it would need to draw over 4 times its normal load to trip the mcb!
I would recommend fitting a temporary socket or fused spur to the end of the cable and fit 2.5mm2 heat resisting flex from oven, the type used for immersion heaters would be best.
When you get hob a 60A joint box can be fitted into the 6mm cable to tee off to hob.
For your further info. when you get hob it will give a rating of total watts on it which will add to ovens load, if you get a high total such as 15000W/15kW Don't panic!
Doing the sums gives 15000+2300=17300/230=75A....
However the regulations 'on site guide allows for the fact that with thermostats on each part working at different times the total load can be taken as;
the 1st 10A plus 30% of remainder ie 10+ [30% of 65A]19.5a=29.5A actual load, plus 5A if socket is fitted to control switch plate = 34.5A, nicely in line with your 40A mcb,
hope thats helpful rather than overwhelming info,
Thank you so much for the reply. It was very straightforward and informative and although I had to read it a couple of times to sink in properly it was not at all overwhelming - though I'm sure it could easily have been if not explained by the right person!
You sound exactly the kind of person I would want to hire - simple, honest, straightforward and not on a 'power trip' (boom boom!) to patronise people like myself (novices).
Thanks for comment, we do have to be careful with advice given since if missunderstood we can be in trouble.
My time spent teaching 2330 electrical course plus 45+ years in trade dealing with apprentices etc means I can usually judge where to pitch my answers, if I think someone is not up to the job I will tell them so or not answer at all!
Poor but honest, that's me! lol
last week I was on a course to update my inspect & test certs. a bit blase about it but to my surprise I actually learnt something about my test meter I was unaware it could do....
we are all novices when it comes down to it,
regards & thanks, SPARX
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