I bought a house almost a year ago, I believe it was built circa 1900. It appears to have been modernised in the last 10 years or so.
It has a utility room which is basically a single storey extension off the kitchen. The main issue is damp, which I think is caused by the garden being almost at window level against one side of it. It also has no heating so is very cold, I imagine this isn't helping.
It has an asbestos roof and a partial clear plastic sheet section.
I DOUBT THERE WILL BE A CAVITY, ESPECIALLY AS YOU SAY THE DAMP WAS PENERTRATING THE WALL.
THE WALL WILL BE SINGLE BRICK 4-5" THICK OR 10-11" THICK IF CAVITY WALL, LOOK AT DOOR OR WINDOW REVEAL TO ASSESS THIS.
THE FLOOR IS ANOTHER AREA WHERE DAMP MAY BE FINDING ITS WAY IN AND THIS SHOULD BE RESOLVED BEFORE YOU PURSUE ANY DRY LINNING.
AS FOR THE DRY LINNING, IT DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU INTEND TO USE THE ROOM FOR AND WHAT APPEARENCE YOU ARE HAPPY TO LIVE WITH BUT IF YOU HEAT THE ROOM THEN I WOULD SAY IT IS A MUST AND USE INSULATION BOARD.
WITH THE WALLS BEING CAVITY CONSTRUCTION, IT SEAMS LIKELY THAT THE WALL WITH THE SOIL AGAINST IT HAS ITS "CAVITY BRIDGED" AT THE POINT WHERE YOU ARE EXPERIENCING THE PENERTRATING DAMP (REMOVAL OF A BRICK OR TWO WILL CONFIRM THIS AND ENABLE REMOVAL OF MATERIAL CAUSING BRIDGE).
IT MAY BE THAT THE EXTERIOR OF THIS WALL HAS HAD SOME FORM OF BARRIER TO DAMP APPLIED TO IT PRIOR TO THE SOIL BEING LOADED AGAINST THE WALL, THIS MAY ALSO APPLY TO THE FLOOR AREA.
HOWEVER, A WALL WITH SOIL LOADED AGAINST IT WILL BE SUBSTANTIALLY COLDER THAN ONE WITHOUT AND CONSEQUENTLY MORE PRONE TO CONDESATION FORMING ON IT WHEN WARM MOIST AIR COMES INTO CONTACT PARTICULARLY DURING WINTER.
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