I am changing an old Belling (unknown model - circa 1990?) white double cooker and an extractor unit (Elica model circa 1990?), for a new Stoves 61EDO ST and TurboAir Padova K11 60.
We currently have an old style MK K5011 (cooker switch with 13A additional socket) [http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/Products/size_3/MK5011.JPG], located above the cooker which is then connected to a hard wired cooker socket behind the cooker itself, running the cooker.
The MK K5011 cooker switch also has another 13A plug socket spurred off of it which runs the extractor hood and under cabinet lights (double plug, plugged into a single socket). This basically means when you turn the cooker switch on for the cooker itself, the extractor and lights get power, which are controlled by their own independant on/off switches.
The cooker switch is connected to our fuse box (located in garage), using a fat cable (10mm I think) and a 45A fuse (green) within the fuse box. For info our shower has a 30A fuse (red).
I have two questions :-
1) I would like to 'simply' install my new cooker by turning off house power, removing 45A fuse at fuse box, undoing wiring in existing Belling cooker and putting these wires correctly into my new Stoves cooker. Is this sufficient?
2) 2nd point is, I would like to change out the old style MK K5011 cooker switch for a nice chrome standard size cooker switch. These are rated 45A Google "lightsaver.co.uk/shop/pics/h_2973_QzMzMlBDQg--.jpg". Is this simply a case of swap all wires in inputs/outputs like for like?
You must check whether the installation is suitably rated for the new cooker and you should really be able to complete a minor works certificate.
Bear in mind that your existing installation is unsafe in that, from your description, the extractor and lights are fed from a 45A supply - you should consider modifying this arrangement.
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