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Suspended/false/drop ceilings (how to fit)

Postby danfenn » Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:45 pm

I'm looking to put in a ceiling to help with running electrical wiring around my house. The existing ceiling is concrete which isone reason why I want to put it in.

What tools are recommended for the job?
What materials would I need?

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Gorilla Glue heavy duty grab adhesive

Postby Joiner_Mike » Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:13 am

Are you looking to put in a lowered ceiling which will be platerboarded and plastered?
If so what is the size of the ceiling that you wish to put up? The reason i ask this is so i can tell you what size timber joists you will need to make up the framework for the plasterboards to fix to
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Postby danfenn » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:02 pm

yes, I am looking to put in a ceiling which will be plasterboard and plastered. The room is approx 13ft x 9ft.
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Postby Joiner_Mike » Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:29 pm

Hi again
I have drawn a diagram for you but since i am new to this i can't seem to insert it. If you give you your email address i will email you step by step instructions on fitting your new ceiling.
It would be better if you used 4"x2" soft white wood timber for your framework due to the span. If you are looking at cost you might be able to get away with 3"x2" but if you can afford it go for the 4"x2" framework as it will be allot stronger
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Postby Joiner_Mike » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:52 pm

Red Plugs
5" No 8 Screws (Box of 200)
17x 10ft lengths 4"x2" white softwood (straight as possible)
No5 X 1800mm x 900mm x 9mm Plasterboards
Small box of plasterboard screws

SDS Drill with Number 6 Drill bit
Cordless Screwdriver with PZ2 bit
Tape Measure
Saw (Bacho Blue Handle)
Approx 22mm Flat drill Bit

First draw a level pencil line around the room on the walls at the height
you want your ceiling
Now fix the 4"x2" with the bottom edge flush with your pencil line. Do this
by drilling with the sds drill though the wodd into the wall. Tapping the
red plug into the wood. just twist the screw into the plug with your fingers
then hammer in until screwhead is about 20mm from the wood. Then screw up with the cordless screwdriver Put about 4 every 8ft. one either end of the wood about 3 inches in and the others spead evenly inbetween.
You can use the saw handle to mark square lines around the timber when
So now you should have 4"x2" all around the room screwed to the wall giving you the outer edges of the framework.
Now you need to measure and cut your joists to make the frame look like a big ladder. Put these in over the shortest distance (9ft Run) wedged
inbetween the outerframe with the bottom of the timber flush with you
outer framework.
Screw the joist into the outer framework by screwing in 45 degrees from the 4" face. Put 2 screws in each face so 8 screws per joist.
Now mark the positions for where your remainging joists will go. Do this
by measuring the underside of the outerframe. Mark from your 1st joist at
400/800/1200/1600/2000/2400/2800mm on both sides of the 13ft run.
measure and cut you second joist and fix as before. It should now be 400mm from centre to centre of joist 1 and 2. Do this until all the joist are in and the final gap between the last joist and the outer framework is 400mm or less.
Now you will need to run 2 rows of noggins out of the 4"x2" so when these
are all in your frame work will look like lots of squares.
Your fist row will be from the 13ft wall 1200mm to the centre of the noggin
your second row of noggins will be at 2400mm from the wall to the centre.
To fit a noggin for you light to go cut a noggin to fit the centre of the
room but fix so the 4" face side is facing the floor. This will give a
bigger area for your light fitting to fix to. In the centre of that noggin
drill using the 22mm flat drill. This will enable your wire to fit though.
Now plaster board from the wall where your first joist is. Running the
2400mm side along the 9ft wall and the 1200mm side along the 13ft wall. It should work out that all 4 outer edges have wood supporting the plasterboard
Screw in with the plasterboard screws so that the head of the plasterboard
screw is flush or very slightly sunk into the plasterboard. About 5 screws
in each joist over the 2400mm run.
Your second plasterboard will be fitted between joist 3 and joist 6 in line
with the first. Now finish off plasterboarding that row
Now Cut a platerboard to fill the remainging space inbetween joist 2 and
joist 8. and finaly screw remaining plasterboards in. the reason for this
is so the second row of platerboards have staggered joint lines from the
first row, which helps to preventing your ceiling plaster from cracking
in time.
Don't for get to put a hole in the plasterboard for your light and dangle
the wire though so it can be fitted after plastering
Now your ceiling is ready to be plastered
Hope i didn't confuse you too much. Just wated to give you as much detail
as possible. Didn't realise how much i do automatically without thinking
Gosh my job is boring on paper lol Sorry about the essay. Hope this helps.
Let me know how you got on...Good luck
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Postby danfenn » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:47 am

that would be a great help thanks, my email address is

thanks again,
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