Hanging a door may seem tricky, but with patience and basic tools, it’s a DIY task anyone can do.
Follow this step-by-step guide to hang a door correctly and confidently, even if it’s your first time.
Types of Doors
Choosing the right door is key before starting your project. There are two main types of doors to consider, depending on where it’s being installed:
Internal Doors
Internal doors are usually lightweight and hollow, except for solid or fire-rated options. They often feature a timber frame with a cardboard honeycomb core.
Solid internal doors are typically made from softwoods like pine. Popular styles include 4 or 6panel, cottage and modern designs.
Their lighter construction makes them affordable, often starting around £25 in many DIY stores and the likes.

Pine softwood internal door
External Doors
External doors are solid and designed to withstand weather, usually made from durable hardwood or low-maintenance materials like composite or UPVC.
They come in panelled, flush or modern styles, often with glazing for added internal light and visibility.
Stronger construction makes them pricier than internal doors, typically starting around £150.

External hardwood door
Choosing the Right Door
Most DIY projects involve hanging internal doors, as modern external doors are often UPVC or composite and lighter to handle.
Internal doors come in two main types: flush doors with flat surfaces, and panelled doors with sections divided by top, bottom, side, and mid-rails.
Standard internal door thicknesses are:
- 35mm (1 3/8 inches)
- 45mm (1 3/4 inches)
- 50mm (2 inches)
For non-standard openings, use oversized door blanks that can be cut to size. Internal doors are usually hollow and lightweight, though solid and fire-check doors are available where needed.
Fire doors are crucial in kitchens, garages, loft conversions and other high-risk areas. They resist fire for 30–45 minutes, depending on rating, and can include intumescent strips that swell under heat to seal gaps and block smoke. Automatic door closers may also be required.


For detailed guidance, see our Fire Doors and Closers Project.
When selecting internal doors, consider matching existing doors or complementing your home’s design. With so many styles and furniture options, it’s easy to find doors and handles that suit your taste.
Standard Internal Door Sizes
Internal doors come in standard sizes to fit most modern door frames, making installation quick and easy with minimal trimming. Non-standard sizes may require a visit to a builders’ merchant.
| 525mm x 2040mm | Metric size for metric frame |
| 626mm x 2040mm | Metric size for metric frame |
| 726mm x 2040mm | Metric size for metric frame |
| 826mm x 2040mm | Metric size for metric frame |
| 926mm x 2040mm | Metric size for metric frame |
| 610mm x 1981mm | 2ft x 6ft 6in |
| 686mm x 1981mm | 2ft 3in x 6ft 6in |
| 762mm x 1981mm | 2ft 6in x 6ft 6in |
| 838mm x 1981mm | 2ft 9in x 6ft 6in |
Using these standard sizes ensures a smooth DIY door installation with fewer adjustments and a professional finish.
Choosing the Right Door
Picking the right door is more than size and style—it must suit its location and purpose.
For external doors, choose solid hardwood for durability, weather resistance and security. Internal doors should match your home’s style and may need to be fire-rated for areas like kitchens or garage entrances.
Consider the door’s swing direction. Internal doors usually open into the room, away from light switches for easy access. Check hinge placement to ensure the door opens correctly with the intended face outward.
Finally, ensure the door has enough material to trim for a proper fit without weakening its structure.
Measuring for Replacement Doors
Accurate measurements are key when replacing a door. The door must fit the frame, you should never adapt a frame to fit a door, so measure carefully.
- Width: Measure the frame at several points top to bottom. Older frames may vary due to bowing.
- Height: Measure from floor to top in three places. Variations indicate an uneven floor or bowed frame.
- Check Corners: Use a square to ensure each frame corner is 90°.
- Check Floor Level: Use a spirit level. Uneven floors may require angled trimming on the door.
Choose a door to match the largest frame dimensions for a proper fit.
Parts of a Door
Knowing the main parts of a door makes installation easier and helps ensure it is fitted the right way around. While door designs vary, most internal and external doors include the same core components:
- Top rail
- Middle (mid) rail
- Bottom rail
- Left and right stiles (the vertical sides of the door)
Some doors also include additional features depending on their design. On many internal doors, the wider section of the top rail identifies the lock block, making it easier to position the hinges and fit the door correctly.

The parts of a standard door
How to Prepare for Hanging a Door
Good preparation makes hanging a door quicker, easier and more accurate. Before you begin, measure both the door and the frame carefully, then check that the frame is square and free from twists or damage. In older properties, a warped frame may need repairing or replacing before fitting a new door.
Always trim the door to suit the frame, never alter the frame to fit the door. Before cutting, leave the door lying flat in the room for at least 72 hours so it can adjust to the temperature and humidity, helping to reduce the risk of warping after installation.
If the door needs trimming, remove equal amounts from each side where possible to keep it balanced and maintain its appearance.
Wait until the door has been fully fitted before installing hinges, handles, locks or any other door furniture.

Very old and warped door frame
Optimal Hinge Placement for Doors
Correct hinge placement helps a door open smoothly, carry its weight evenly and reduces the risk of sagging. For most internal doors, use the following guide when marking out hinge positions:
- Top hinge: 125–150mm down from the top of the door.
- Bottom hinge: 200–230mm up from the bottom of the door.
- Centre hinge: Fit midway between the top and bottom hinges on heavier doors.
Fire doors and other heavy doors should normally have an additional hinge positioned around 50mm below the top hinge to provide extra support and improve long-term performance.
As a general guide, use the following number of hinges:
- Up to 1525mm (60in): 2 hinges
- 1525mm–2000mm (60–80in): 3 hinges
- 2000mm–2500mm (80–100in): 4 hinges
- 2500mm–2780mm (100–110in): 5 hinges
- Over 2780mm (110in): 6 hinges
Essential Tools and Products for Hanging a Door
Having the right tools makes hanging a door quicker, safer and more accurate. Before you start, gather the following essentials:
- Your chosen door
- Carpenter’s square
- Sharp hand saw
- Circular saw
- Long straight edge or spirit level
- At least 2 clamps
- Pencil or pen
- Tape measure
- Sharp chisels or palm router
- Hammer or mallet
- Appropriate hinges
- Drill/driver
- Door holder or clamps
- Workbench or Workmates for cutting
- Manual or electric plane
- Sander or sandpaper
- Screwdrivers or wooden wedge to prop the door during fitting
- Drill bits, including a 3mm pilot drill
- Mortice gauge
- New door frame or repair timber, if necessary
How to Hang a Door
This step-by-step guide explains how to hang a new door in an existing frame, from preparing and trimming the door to fitting the hinges. It also shows you how to reposition the hinges if you want to reverse the door so it opens in the opposite direction.
Step 1: Check the Door Orientation
Before you start hanging a door, make sure it is the correct way up and facing the right direction. This helps avoid mistakes when marking hinges and cutting.
For hollow core doors, look for the lock block mark on the edge or top. If there are no markings, lightly tap the centre rail—the lock side will sound more solid. On panel doors, the thicker stile is usually the bottom.

Lock sign on side of door

Honeycomb door cross section
Decide which way the door will open before marking the hinge side. Most doors open inward, but always plan the swing so it works with the room layout.
As a final check, avoid positioning the door so it blocks a light switch or creates awkward access when entering or leaving the room.
Step 2: Inspect the Frame
Once the door is positioned, check that the frame is square and true. Newer homes are usually accurate, but older properties often have slightly twisted or uneven frames.
Use a spirit level on both sides of the frame to check for leaning, then check the top (head) and floor line for level. A carpenter’s square will help confirm each corner is at 90°, while extra measurements from top to bottom will highlight any distortion.
If the frame has only small imperfections, it can normally be used as it is. However, heavily warped or bowed frames should be repaired or replaced for a proper fit. If the opening is too large, it can often be adjusted by lining or planing the frame to suit a standard door size.
For more detail, see our door frame installation guide.
Step 3: Measure and Fit the Door to the Frame
To get a precise fit, position the door in the frame and mark where it needs trimming. This helps you see exactly what needs to be removed before cutting.
If the frame is slightly out of size, small adjustments such as adding or packing out timber can often correct the opening without needing a full replacement. However, badly misaligned frames should be repaired or replaced.
Hold the door firmly against the frame (ask for help if needed) and mark the inside edges clearly with a pencil. Use a spirit level while marking to keep everything straight and ensure the final fit will hang square and level.
Step 4: Cutting the Door to Fit
Once marked, cut the door to size using a hand saw or circular saw. A circular saw is best for clean, accurate, straight cuts.
To guide the cut, measure the distance from the saw blade to the base plate edge, then transfer this measurement inside your cutting line. Mark it in a couple of places and use a straight edge or spirit level clamped firmly in position to guide the saw.
Cut slowly along the guide, keeping the saw tight to the straight edge. Repeat for any other cuts. If using a hand saw, follow the same principle by keeping the blade flush against a fixed straight edge for accuracy.
Always cut just outside your pencil line rather than directly on it, allowing room for fine adjustment with a plane. This prevents over-cutting and ensures a tight, professional fit.
For more advice, see our cutting timber guide.
Step 5: Fitting Hinges to Your Door
Once the door is cut to size, the next step is fitting the hinges. Most internal doors use standard butt hinges, although other options are available in our hinge guide.
A common hinge layout is 125mm from the top of the door and 230mm from the bottom. Mark these positions clearly on the hinge edge, making sure you have the door oriented so it will open in the correct direction.
Use a pencil or mortice gauge to mark the hinge outline accurately. Avoid scoring with a knife, as this can be unsafe and less precise.
Carefully chisel or rout out the hinge recess so the hinge plate sits flush with the door edge. Work just inside your marked line and check depth frequently to avoid over-cutting.
Fix the hinge in place and confirm it sits perfectly level with the door surface—neither raised nor recessed, as this ensures smooth movement and prevents sticking.
If you are new to this, practice on offcuts before fitting your final door.

Cutting out hinge recess
Step 6: Drill and Screw the Hinges to the Door
Place each hinge into its recess and mark the screw holes with a pencil. Drill centred pilot holes to prevent the timber splitting and keep the hinge correctly aligned.
Secure the hinges using the supplied screws or suitable 8x40mm wood screws. Tighten each screw evenly, checking that the hinge remains flush with the door for smooth, trouble-free operation.

Drill driver screwing hinges down
Step 7: Check the Gap Around Your Door
Once the hinges are fitted, place the door into the frame using wedges or screwdrivers to hold it in position. Check that the gaps around all edges are even, as this ensures the door opens and closes smoothly without rubbing.

Uniform gap around the newly fitted door
Also make sure there is enough clearance at the bottom of the door for future flooring, such as carpet or laminate, to avoid it catching once installed.

Position door precisely in frame
Step 8: Mark the Hinge Positions on the Frame
With the door held in place, transfer the hinge positions onto the frame so they align correctly. This step ensures the door will hang and swing smoothly once fitted.
You can mark the positions by tracing around each hinge, using a mortice gauge for accuracy or removing a hinge and drawing around it directly on the frame. Use a carpenter’s square where needed to keep the markings straight and true.
Once marked, carefully chisel or rout out the recesses so the hinges sit flush within the frame, ready for final fixing.

Door hinge position on door frame and marked
Step 9: Attach the Hinges to the Frame
With the hinge recesses prepared, fix the hinges to the frame and hang the door. Use wedges or screwdrivers to hold the door steady while you work. If you’re fitting the door alone, a small temporary pin or nail in the top hinge can help stop it moving.
Secure the top hinge first to take the weight, then align and fix the bottom hinge. Tighten all screws evenly so the door sits correctly and moves freely without binding.
Once both hinges are fixed, the door is fully hung. Finish the job by fitting a door stop and any final hardware such as handles or latches.

Finished job of a door fitted to frame
Step 10: Fixing the Doorstop, Lock, and Hardware
Once the door is hanging correctly and swings smoothly, the final stage is fitting the doorstop and hardware. This ensures the door closes neatly and sits flush within the frame.
Close the door and mark its edge onto the frame. Use this line to cut and fit an 8mm or 12mm x 32mm timber doorstop. Fix it in place with lost head nails, two along the top and three down each side, checking with a spirit level so it stays straight.
Adjust so the door meets the stop evenly when closed, then fully secure it.

Doorstop fitted to door frame
Finally, fit the door handle, latch or lock and any remaining ironmongery to complete the installation.
- How to fit a door handle
- How to fit a door chain
- How to fit a door bolt
- How to fit a cat flap
- How to fit door numbers

Lock fitted to newly installed door
Step 11: Filling Old Hinge Recesses and Finishing Touches
After fitting the door and hardware, complete the job by tidying up any visible marks or old hinge positions for a clean, professional finish.
If the door has been rehung on the opposite side, fill the unused hinge recesses using wood filler, then sand smooth once dry and paint to match the frame.
For a stronger repair, you can fit a small timber infill (scarf repair), glue it into place and sand it flush before decorating.
Make sure all gaps and repairs are fully blended into the frame. Once painted, the finished result should be neat and virtually unnoticeable.
New to DIY? Hanging a door can feel tricky at first, but by following these simple steps carefully, you can complete the job yourself and achieve a neat, professional-quality finish.
